Mortgage Payment Calculator

This calculator gives you the number that actually leaves your bank account each month — not just principal and interest, but property tax, homeowners insurance, HOA dues and private mortgage insurance. It also builds the full amortisation schedule, drops PMI automatically once you reach 80% loan-to-value, and shows exactly how much interest and time an extra monthly payment saves you.

Calculator

This calculator runs in your browser. Enable JavaScript for live results — the inputs, formula and worked example below remain fully readable without it.

Inputs this calculator takes, with typical values
InputWhat to enterExample
Home price or appraised valueUsed to work out loan-to-value so PMI can be dropped at the right point.400000 $
Loan amountThe home price minus your down payment. This is what you are borrowing.360000 $
Annual interest rateYour nominal annual rate, not the APR. Use the rate on the note.6.5 %
Loan termThe full amortisation period written into the note.30 years
Annual property taxFind last year's figure on your county assessor's site, not the seller's estimate.4800 $
Annual homeowners insuranceThe premium your lender will collect in escrow, not a renters policy.1800 $
Monthly HOA or condo feeEnter 0 if there is no association. This is usually paid directly, not escrowed.0 $
PMI rateAnnual PMI as a percent of the loan balance; typically 0.3%–1.5%. Enter 0 for VA or 20%-down loans.0.55 % / yr
Extra principal each monthAny amount you pay above the required payment, applied straight to principal.0 $

It returns

  • Total monthly payment — Principal, interest, tax, insurance, HOA and PMI for your first payment.
  • Principal & interest
  • Tax, insurance, HOA & PMI
  • Total interest over the loan
  • Total of all payments
  • Paid off in
  • Starting loan-to-value
  • Interest saved by extra payments

The formula

M=Pr1(1+r)n
PITI=M+tax12+insurance12+HOA+PMI

In plain text: M = P·r / (1 − (1 + r)^−n)

  • MMonthly principal and interest payment ($)
  • PPrincipal — the amount borrowed ($)
  • rPeriodic interest rate: annual rate ÷ 12 (decimal)
  • nTotal number of monthly payments: years × 12 (months)

This is the fixed-rate amortised loan formula. It assumes a constant rate, equal monthly payments, and interest charged on the declining balance.

Updated Category Mortgages & Home Financing Verified against published test cases Reading time 12 min

What a mortgage payment is actually made of

Most people quote a mortgage payment as a single number, but a lender's monthly draft is assembled from up to five separate charges. Lenders call the bundle PITI — principal, interest, taxes and insurance — and it matters enormously that you know which parts you are looking at, because only two of them shrink your debt.

Principal is the portion that reduces what you owe. Interest is the lender's charge for the money, calculated on whatever balance remains this month. Together these two make the amount fixed by your note; they never change on a fixed-rate loan. Taxes and insurance are collected into an escrow account and paid out on your behalf when the bills fall due — and these do change, usually upward, every year. On top of that sit two optional items: HOA or condo dues, and private mortgage insurance (PMI) if you put down less than 20%.

The gap between the two figures is not small. On a $360,000 loan at 6.5% with typical escrow, principal and interest come to about $2,275 a month, while the full payment is closer to $3,040 — a difference of one-third. A buyer who budgets from the principal-and-interest figure alone is short roughly $9,200 a year.

How the amortised payment formula works

The payment on a fixed-rate mortgage comes from the annuity formula. It answers a precise question: what constant monthly amount, paid n times, exactly retires a balance of P if interest accrues at rate r each month?

The shape of the formula follows from that question. The term (1+r)n is the present value of $1 received n months from now. Subtracting it from 1 and dividing gives the present-value factor for a stream of n equal payments. Multiply your principal by the monthly rate and divide by that factor, and you have the payment.

Two conversions trip people up. First, the rate must be periodic, not annual: a 6.5% mortgage uses r = 0.065 ÷ 12 = 0.00541667, not 0.065. Second, use the note rate, not the APR. APR folds origination fees into an effective yearly cost so that loans can be compared; it is deliberately not the rate your payment is computed from. Feeding an APR into this formula overstates your payment by a few dollars a month.

Notice also what the formula does not contain: any reference to your home's value, your credit score, or your down payment. Those determine what rate and what principal you are offered. Once the note is signed, the payment depends on three numbers only.

Worked example: $360,000 at 6.5% over 30 years

Take a $400,000 home with 10% down, so you borrow $360,000 at 6.5% for 30 years, with $4,800 a year in property tax, $1,800 a year in insurance, $50 a month in HOA dues, and PMI at 0.55%.

  1. Convert the rate. r = 6.5 ÷ 100 ÷ 12 = 0.00541667 per month.
  2. Count the payments. n = 30 × 12 = 360.
  3. Compute the discount factor. (1.00541667)−360 = 0.1430251. Subtract from 1: 0.8569749.
  4. Multiply principal by the rate. $360,000 × 0.00541667 = $1,950.00.
  5. Divide. $1,950.00 ÷ 0.8569749 = $2,275.45 principal and interest.
  6. Add escrow. Tax $4,800 ÷ 12 = $400. Insurance $1,800 ÷ 12 = $150. HOA = $50.
  7. Add PMI. $360,000 × 0.0055 ÷ 12 = $165 per month.
  8. Total. $2,275.45 + $400 + $150 + $50 + $165 = $3,040.45 per month.

Now check the first payment's split. Interest for month one is $360,000 × 0.00541667 = $1,950.00. Principal is $2,275.45 − $1,950.00 = just $325.45. In month one, 86% of your principal-and-interest payment is pure interest. That is not a trick of this particular loan — it is what amortisation looks like whenever the rate is high relative to the term.

How to read the result: what is a reasonable payment

Lenders judge affordability with two ratios, and you should apply them to yourself before an underwriter does.

The front-end ratio is your full housing payment — the whole PITI figure, including HOA — divided by gross monthly income. Conventional underwriting has historically looked for 28% or less. The back-end or total debt-to-income ratio adds every other monthly obligation: car loans, student loans, minimum credit-card payments, child support. Conforming loans generally cap this at 43% to 45%, and 50% at the outer edge with strong compensating factors. FHA underwriting is somewhat more permissive; jumbo lenders are usually stricter.

These are ceilings for approval, not targets for comfort. A payment that passes at 43% back-end leaves very little room for a roof, a furnace, or a lost bonus. If you want one number to aim at, keep total PITI at or under about 25% of gross income and you will rarely regret it.

Watch the escrow line separately. Property tax and insurance are the parts of your payment that will rise, and in some markets they have risen faster than wages for years. A lender's initial escrow estimate is often based on the seller's assessment, which may be well below what you will be assessed after the sale resets your basis. Ask for the current millage rate and the assessed value the county expects to use, and run your own number.

Monthly principal and interest per $1,000 borrowed

Multiply the factor by your loan amount in thousands. A $325,000 loan at 6% for 30 years: 5.9955 × 325 = $1,948.54 per month.
Annual rate10 years15 years20 years30 years
3.00%9.65616.90585.54604.2160
4.00%10.12457.39696.05984.7742
5.00%10.60667.90796.59965.3682
6.00%11.10218.43867.16435.9955
6.50%11.35488.71117.45576.3207
7.00%11.61088.98837.75306.6530
8.00%12.13289.55658.36447.3376

Principal and interest only — add your own escrow. Factors are the amortised-loan formula evaluated at each rate and term.

Why extra principal is so powerful early on

Every dollar you add to principal permanently removes all the future interest that dollar would have generated. Because the interest charge each month is the balance times the rate, a dollar paid in year 1 avoids nearly 30 years of compounding; the same dollar paid in year 25 avoids five.

The arithmetic is startling. On a $300,000 loan at 6% for 30 years, the required payment is $1,798.65 and total interest is $347,515. Add $200 a month — about 11% more — and the loan clears in 279 months instead of 360, saving roughly $91,000 in interest and taking almost seven years off the term. The extra payments themselves total about $55,800.

Two practical cautions. First, tell your servicer in writing that extra funds are to be applied to principal, not held as a prepaid next installment; otherwise many servicers park it and you gain nothing. Second, compare the guaranteed return against your other options: prepaying a 6.5% mortgage is a risk-free 6.5% return, which is excellent — but not before you have taken an employer 401(k) match, cleared credit-card debt, or built an emergency fund. A dollar in your mortgage is very hard to get back out.

If you would rather compare prepaying against refinancing, work through the refinance break-even calculator, and use the amortisation schedule calculator to see the month-by-month split.

PMI does not always fall off by itself

On conventional loans, the Homeowners Protection Act requires a servicer to terminate PMI automatically when your balance reaches 78% of the original value on the amortisation schedule, and to cancel it on your written request at 80%. Those are two different thresholds with two different triggers, and the earlier one requires you to ask. This calculator drops PMI at 80% loan-to-value, which is what you get if you make the request.

FHA loans are different: mortgage insurance premiums on most FHA loans written since 2013 last the life of the loan regardless of equity, and can only be removed by refinancing into a conventional mortgage.

Mistakes that make a payment estimate wrong

  • Budgeting from principal and interest alone. The most common and most expensive error. Escrow can add 25–40% to the payment.
  • Using the APR instead of the note rate. APR includes fees and is a comparison tool, not the rate your payment is derived from.
  • Trusting the seller's tax figure. A sale often resets the assessed value. Get the millage rate and the expected new assessment from the county.
  • Forgetting that escrow is re-analysed annually. Your payment will change even on a fixed-rate loan, and a shortfall can be collected over just 12 months.
  • Ignoring PMI's threshold rules. Assuming it disappears at 20% equity without asking, or assuming FHA insurance behaves like conventional PMI.
  • Comparing a 15-year and a 30-year loan by payment only. The 15-year payment is higher but the total interest is usually less than half. Compare both figures.
  • Overlooking HOA dues. They are not escrowed on most loans, so they never appear on a lender's payment quote — but they still leave your account.

What this calculator assumes, and what it does not model

The calculation assumes a fixed rate, equal monthly payments, interest charged monthly on the declining balance, and payments applied at the end of each period. That describes the overwhelming majority of American residential mortgages.

It does not model: adjustable rates after the fixed period ends, interest-only or balloon structures, biweekly payment plans, simple-interest daily accrual (used by a minority of servicers), late fees, discount points paid at closing, or the tax treatment of mortgage interest. It assumes your tax, insurance and HOA figures stay constant, which they will not — treat any total-cost figure as a lower bound.

Closing costs are outside the payment entirely. Expect 2% to 5% of the purchase price in lender fees, title work, recording, prepaid interest and the initial escrow deposit. For a full picture of what you need at the table, and of how a different down payment changes both PMI and the payment, work through the home affordability calculator and the rent vs buy calculator.

Key terms

Amortisation
The process of retiring a debt through regular equal payments, each split between interest on the outstanding balance and principal reduction. Early payments are mostly interest; later ones are mostly principal.
PITI
Principal, Interest, Taxes and Insurance — the full housing payment lenders use in affordability ratios.
Escrow (impound) account
An account your servicer maintains from part of your monthly payment, out of which property tax and insurance premiums are paid when due. Re-analysed yearly.
Loan-to-value (LTV)
The loan balance divided by the property's value, as a percent. Drives PMI, pricing, and refinance eligibility. 80% is the pivotal threshold.
PMI
Private mortgage insurance. Protects the lender, not you, against default on a conventional loan with less than 20% equity. Typically 0.3%–1.5% of the loan per year.
Note rate
The contractual interest rate written into your promissory note — the rate the payment is calculated from, as distinct from the APR.

Frequently asked questions

Does this calculator include property taxes and insurance?

Yes. Enter your annual property tax and annual homeowners insurance premium and both are divided by twelve and added to the payment, along with any HOA dues and PMI. The Total monthly payment figure is your full PITI. If you want principal and interest only, set the tax, insurance, HOA and PMI fields to zero — the Principal & interest output always shows that figure separately regardless.

Why is my lender's quoted payment different from this?

Almost always one of four things. The lender may be quoting principal and interest only. They may be using a different escrow estimate — often the seller's old tax bill rather than the reassessed value. They may include a different PMI factor based on your credit score and LTV. Or they may be quoting a payment that includes prepaid interest for a partial first month. Ask for the Loan Estimate: page 1 breaks out every component.

How much of my first payment goes to principal?

Far less than most people expect. Interest in month one is simply your balance times the monthly rate, and the rest of the payment is principal. On a $360,000 loan at 6.5%, that is $1,950 of interest against $325 of principal — 86% interest. The crossover point where principal first exceeds interest arrives at payment 233 of a 30-year loan at 6.5%, a little over nineteen years in. The amortisation schedule this calculator produces shows the whole trajectory.

Should I take a 15-year or a 30-year mortgage?

Compare two numbers, not one. On $300,000 at 6%, a 30-year loan costs $1,798.65 a month and $347,515 in total interest; a 15-year at the same rate costs $2,531.57 a month but only $155,683 in interest — well under half. In practice 15-year loans also carry a rate roughly 0.5–0.75 points lower, widening the gap further. The 30-year's advantage is flexibility: a lower required payment that you can voluntarily exceed. If you would reliably make the higher payment anyway, the 15-year is cheaper; if you value the option to fall back, take the 30-year and prepay.

When does PMI actually stop?

On a conventional loan, you may request cancellation once the balance reaches 80% of the original value, and the servicer must terminate it automatically at 78% based on the original amortisation schedule. The 80% cancellation requires a written request and a current payment history; the 78% termination is automatic. This calculator drops PMI at 80% LTV. FHA loans are the exception — most FHA mortgage insurance premiums now last the life of the loan and can only be shed by refinancing.

Does making extra payments lower my monthly payment?

No — it shortens the term instead. Your required payment is fixed by the note, so extra principal shrinks the balance and therefore the number of remaining payments, not their size. If you specifically want a lower payment, ask your servicer about recasting: after a large principal reduction some lenders will re-amortise the remaining balance over the remaining term for a modest fee, which does lower the payment while keeping the original payoff date.

What is a normal total monthly payment relative to income?

Conventional underwriting generally wants your full housing payment at or below 28% of gross monthly income, and all debt payments combined below 43–45%. Those are approval limits. For genuine comfort, aim for total PITI near 25% of gross income; that leaves room for maintenance, which on an older house runs 1–2% of the home's value per year.

Can I use this for a car loan or a personal loan?

The principal-and-interest math is identical for any fixed-rate amortised loan, so yes — set the escrow fields to zero and choose a term. That said, purpose-built tools handle the details better: try the auto personal loan payment calculator for trade-in and sales-tax handling, or the personal loan payment calculator for a general term in months.

Why does my escrow payment change every year?

Because the bills it pays change. Your servicer performs an annual escrow analysis, compares what it collected against what it paid out, and resets your monthly escrow to cover the coming year plus a cushion (usually up to two months, capped by federal rule). A tax reassessment or an insurance premium increase flows straight into your payment. A shortfall can legally be collected over as little as twelve months, which is why escrow increases sometimes arrive as an unpleasant jump rather than a drift.

References