Personal Finance, Loans & Credit Auto, Lease & Personal Loans Amortised loan formula; Regulation Z finance-charge disclosure

Auto Loan Payment Calculator

The payment a dealer quotes is built from more than the sticker price. Sales tax, documentation and registration fees, and any balance still owed on the car you are trading all get financed alongside the vehicle. This calculator assembles the amount financed the way an F&I office does — including the trade-in tax credit that most states grant and the negative equity that many buyers roll in — then amortises it to a monthly payment and shows what the car costs once interest is counted.

Calculator

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Inputs this calculator takes, with typical values
InputWhat to enterExample
Vehicle priceThe agreed selling price before tax and fees, after any rebate or discount.40000 $
Cash down paymentCash or rebate applied to the purchase, excluding the value of any trade-in.4000 $
Trade-in allowanceWhat the dealer credits you for your old vehicle, before its loan is settled.0 $
Loan still owed on the trade-inPayoff quote on your existing car loan; anything above the allowance is negative equity and gets financed.0 $
Sales tax rateCombined state and local rate on vehicle purchases where you register the car.6.5 %
State taxes only the difference after trade-inTrue in most states: tax applies to price minus trade allowance. Untick for states that tax the full price.Yes
Title, registration and doc feesEverything on the buyer's order that is not price or tax; the doc fee is the largest and is capped in some states.800 $
Annual percentage rateThe APR on the retail instalment contract — on a simple-interest auto loan with no fees this equals the note rate.7.5 %
TermNumber of monthly payments on the contract.72 months

It returns

  • Monthly payment — Principal and interest on the retail instalment contract. Insurance is not included.
  • Amount financed
  • Sales tax
  • Total interest (finance charge)
  • Total of payments
  • Total cost of the vehicle
  • Interest as a share of payments

The formula

M=Lr1(1+r)n
tax=(PT)t

In plain text: L = price + tax + fees − down − (trade allowance − trade payoff); M = L·r / (1 − (1 + r)^−n)

  • LAmount financed ($)
  • MMonthly payment ($)
  • rMonthly rate, APR ÷ 12 (decimal)
  • nNumber of monthly payments (months)

In most states sales tax applies to the price less the trade-in allowance, so the trade both reduces the amount financed and reduces the tax.

Updated Category Auto, Lease & Personal Loans Verified against published test cases Reading time 10 min

What actually gets financed when you buy a car

The amount financed is almost never the price on the window sticker. Five things move it, and only one of them is the price.

Sales tax is charged where you register the vehicle, at a combined state and local rate that runs from nothing to well over 9%. On a $40,000 car at 6.5% that is $2,600, and unless you pay it in cash it is financed at your loan rate along with everything else.

Fees cover title, registration and the dealer's documentation charge. The doc fee is pure dealer revenue, is capped by statute in some states and unregulated in others, and can run from under $100 to over $700.

Your down payment reduces the amount financed dollar for dollar, as does trade-in equity — but equity means the allowance minus what you still owe on that car. If the payoff is larger than the allowance, the difference is negative equity, and it is added to the new loan rather than subtracted.

The last piece is the trade-in tax credit. In most states sales tax applies to the price less the trade allowance, so trading a $10,000 car into a $40,000 purchase at 6% saves $600 of tax on top of the $10,000 credit. A handful of states, California and Virginia among them, tax the full price regardless — untick the box above if you are in one.

From the buyer's order to a monthly payment

Assemble the amount financed first: L = price + tax + fees − down payment − (trade allowance − trade payoff). Note the parentheses. The trade contributes its net equity, which is negative whenever you owe more than it is worth, and a negative contribution increases the loan.

Then amortise it with the standard fixed-payment formula, M = L·r / (1 − (1 + r)n), where r is the APR divided by twelve and n is the number of months. This is the same identity behind the mortgage payment calculator and the personal loan calculator; only the scale differs.

Almost every US auto loan is a simple-interest contract, which means interest accrues on the outstanding balance day by day and the schedule behaves exactly like a small mortgage: early payments are mostly interest, later ones mostly principal, and prepaying reduces total interest. The older Rule of 78s, which front-loaded the finance charge and penalised early payoff, is prohibited on consumer loans longer than 61 months and has largely disappeared.

Because auto loans normally carry no origination fee, the APR the dealer discloses under Regulation Z equals the note rate, and you can use the two interchangeably here. That is not true of personal loans or mortgages, where fees drive the APR above the note rate.

Worked example: a $40,000 vehicle with $4,000 down at 7.5% over 72 months

Take the defaults: $40,000 price, $4,000 cash down, no trade-in, sales tax 6.5%, $800 in title, registration and doc fees, 7.5% APR over 72 months.

  1. Sales tax. With no trade-in the taxable amount is the full price: 40,000 × 6.5% = $2,600.
  2. Amount financed. 40,000 + 2,600 + 800 − 4,000 = $39,400. Note that this is very nearly the sticker price even after $4,000 down, because tax and fees put $3,400 back.
  3. Monthly rate. r = 7.5 ÷ 1,200 = 0.00625.
  4. Discount factor. (1.00625)72 = 1.56612, so (1 + r)−72 = 0.638522 and 1 − that = 0.361478.
  5. Payment. M = 39,400 × 0.00625 = 246.25, and 246.25 ÷ 0.361478 = $681.23.
  6. Finance charge. 72 × 681.23 = $49,048.59 of payments, less the $39,400 financed, leaves $9,648.59 of interest — 19.7% of everything you pay.
  7. Total cost of the car. 40,000 + 2,600 + 800 + 9,648.59 = $53,048.59, against a $40,000 sticker.

Now change one thing. Take the same deal over 48 months instead: the payment rises to $952.65, but the finance charge falls to $6,327.14 — $3,321.45 less. That is the whole term trade-off in one comparison, and it is why the term is the most consequential number in the F&I office.

Reading the result, and the numbers dealers steer you towards

Look at the interest share before the payment. It is the finance charge divided by everything you will pay, and it turns the term decision into one number: 13.8% of payments on the 48-month version of the example above, 19.7% on the 72-month version. Anything much above 15% means the term is doing most of the work of making the payment affordable.

Then check the amount financed against the price. On the default deal, $39,400 is financed on a $40,000 car after $4,000 down — so you are above 98% loan-to-value on an asset that loses value fastest in its first year. This is the mechanism that produces negative equity: the loan amortises more slowly than the car depreciates, and a buyer who trades at month 30 owes more than the allowance. The classic guard against it is the 20/4/10 rule — at least 20% down, no more than four years of financing, and total transport costs under 10% of gross income — which the car affordability calculator tests directly.

Be careful about the two ways a longer term is sold. “What monthly payment are you looking for?” is a question that can be answered by extending the term rather than lowering the price, and an 84-month contract can make almost any car fit almost any payment. Negotiate the out-the-door price first and discuss the payment only once it is fixed.

Finally, arrive with a rate. Credit unions and banks will pre-approve you, and the dealer must disclose the APR on the retail instalment contract, so the comparison is direct. Dealers are permitted to mark up the buy rate the lender quotes them, and a pre-approval is the only reliable way to see whether they have.

Monthly payment per $1,000 financed

Multiply the factor by your amount financed in thousands. $39,400 at 7.5% over 72 months: 39.4 × 17.29 = $681.23.
APR36 mo48 mo60 mo72 mo84 mo
3%$29.08$22.13$17.97$15.19$13.21
4%$29.52$22.58$18.42$15.65$13.67
5%$29.97$23.03$18.87$16.10$14.13
6%$30.42$23.49$19.33$16.57$14.61
7%$30.88$23.95$19.80$17.05$15.09
8%$31.34$24.41$20.28$17.53$15.59
9%$31.80$24.89$20.76$18.03$16.09
10%$32.27$25.36$21.25$18.53$16.60
11%$32.74$25.85$21.74$19.03$17.12

Read across a row and each extra year of term cuts the payment by less than the year before it. Read down a column and the rate matters far more at long terms than at short ones: from 3% to 11% the 36-month factor rises by 12.6% while the 84-month factor rises by 29.6%.

Costs and traps this calculator does not price

  • Insurance. Full coverage is required while the car is financed and is not part of the payment. It is often the second-largest line in the cost of running a vehicle.
  • Back-end products. Extended warranties, gap insurance, paint protection and tyre-and-wheel plans are added to the amount financed in the F&I office. Each one raises the payment and the finance charge, and each is negotiable or refusable.
  • Gap insurance matters more than it sounds. With a small down payment and a long term you owe more than the car is worth for years, and a standard policy pays only the market value if it is totalled. That gap is a real exposure, even though the product is usually cheaper from your own insurer than from the dealer.
  • Rebates versus low APR. A manufacturer offers one or the other, not both. Model each separately here — a $2,500 rebate at 7.5% often beats 0% financing on a shorter term, and sometimes does not.
  • The doc fee is often not negotiable, but the price is. If the dealer will not move on a $699 doc fee, ask for $699 off the price instead.
  • Registration and tax vary by where you register, not where you buy. Buying across a state line does not change what you owe.
  • Prepayment. On a simple-interest contract, paying extra reduces the balance and the interest immediately. Confirm there is no prepayment penalty before signing; they are rare on auto loans but not extinct.

Leasing, refinancing and the alternative to financing at all

A lease is priced from a different formula: you pay for depreciation over the term plus a rent charge on the capitalised cost, rather than repaying the whole vehicle. That makes the monthly figure lower for the same car and the lifetime cost higher for anyone who keeps vehicles a long time. Comparing a lease payment against a loan payment tells you almost nothing, because they buy different things.

Refinancing an auto loan is straightforward when your credit has improved since purchase, because auto loans carry no closing costs — so unlike a mortgage there is no break-even to recover. Re-run this calculator with the new rate and the remaining term to see the saving.

And it is worth naming the alternative: buying with cash, or with a much larger down payment, removes the finance charge entirely. On the default deal the finance charge is $9,648.59, which is a real return on cash you might otherwise invest. If consumer debt is competing for the same money, the debt avalanche calculator shows which balance to clear first, and the credit card payoff calculator prices the highest-rate debt most households carry.

Frequently asked questions

How much is the monthly payment on a $40,000 car?

About $681 a month with $4,000 down, 6.5% sales tax, $800 of fees, a 7.5% APR and a 72-month term — because $39,400 actually gets financed, not $36,000. Shorten the term to 48 months and the same deal is $952.65 a month. The payment is driven by four numbers in roughly this order of importance: amount financed, term, APR, and down payment. Change the term first if the payment does not fit.

Does a trade-in reduce the sales tax on a new car?

In most states, yes. Sales tax is charged on the price less the trade-in allowance, so trading a $10,000 vehicle into a $40,000 purchase at 6% cuts the tax from $2,400 to $1,800. California, Virginia, Michigan (partially) and a few others tax the full price regardless — untick the trade-in credit box for those. This is one reason trading in at the dealer sometimes beats a slightly higher private-sale price.

What happens if I owe more on my trade-in than it is worth?

The shortfall is added to your new loan. A $12,000 payoff against an $8,000 allowance rolls $4,000 of negative equity into the new contract, so on a $30,000 car you finance $34,000 and start out owing 113% of its value. The car then has to appreciate — which it will not — before you have equity again. Rolling negative equity twice is how buyers end up owing $40,000 on a $22,000 vehicle.

Is a 72- or 84-month car loan a bad idea?

It lowers the payment and raises both the finance charge and the length of time you owe more than the car is worth. On the default deal, 72 months costs $9,648.59 in interest against $6,327.14 over 48 months. The problem is not the arithmetic but what it hides: a term long enough to make an unaffordable car affordable. If the car only fits at 84 months, the honest conclusion is usually that it is the wrong car.

Should I take the rebate or the 0% financing?

Compute both and compare the total cost. A $2,500 rebate reduces the amount financed permanently; 0% financing saves the finance charge on the full amount. On the default deal at 7.5% over 72 months, taking the rebate finances $36,900 and produces $45,936.37 of payments; taking 0% finances $39,400 and produces $39,400 of payments, so 0% is $6,536.37 cheaper. Reverse the market rate and the term — a low rate over a short term leaves little interest for 0% to save — and the rebate wins instead. Run each as a separate calculation above.

Is the APR the same as the interest rate on a car loan?

On most auto loans, yes. APR under Regulation Z includes finance charges paid to the creditor, and auto retail instalment contracts typically carry no origination fee, so the APR and the note rate coincide. They diverge if the dealer adds a finance charge or if you finance products through the lender. Personal loans and mortgages behave differently — see the personal loan calculator, where an origination fee pushes the effective rate well above the quoted one.

How much should I put down on a car?

Twenty per cent of the price is the standard guideline, and it exists for a mechanical reason rather than a moral one: it roughly offsets first-year depreciation, so you stay above water on the loan. On the default $40,000 deal that would be $8,000 rather than $4,000, and it would cut the payment to about $612 and the finance charge to $8,669. The car affordability calculator tests the full 20/4/10 guideline against your income.

Can I pay off a car loan early without a penalty?

Almost always. US auto loans are overwhelmingly simple-interest contracts, so interest stops accruing on principal you repay and there is nothing to refund or penalise. Check the contract for a prepayment clause anyway, and confirm the lender applies extra money to principal rather than holding it as a future payment. The precomputed Rule of 78s method, which did penalise early payoff, is prohibited on consumer credit with a term over 61 months.

References