Personal Finance, Loans & Credit Mortgages & Home Financing 28/36 and FHA 31/43 debt-to-income guidelines

Home Affordability Calculator

This calculator works backwards from your paycheck to a purchase price. It applies the two debt-to-income ceilings underwriters actually use — a front-end limit on housing cost alone and a back-end limit on all recurring debt — then subtracts property tax, insurance, HOA dues and mortgage insurance to find how much principal and interest is left. That residual is inverted through the amortised-loan formula to give a maximum loan, and your down payment is added back to give a maximum price. It also tells you which of the two ceilings is the one holding you back.

Calculator

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Inputs this calculator takes, with typical values
InputWhat to enterExample
Gross annual household incomeIncome before tax and before any deductions, for every borrower on the application.90000 $
Existing monthly debt paymentsMinimum payments on car loans, student loans, credit cards, child support and alimony — not utilities or groceries.500 $
Cash available for the down paymentCash you will apply to the purchase price, excluding money you must keep back for closing costs.40000 $
Underwriting guidelineThe front-end and back-end debt-to-income ceilings applied to your gross income.Conventional 28 / 36
Mortgage interest rateThe note rate you have been quoted, not the APR.6.5 %
Loan termThe amortisation period of the note you expect to sign.30 years
Property tax rateAnnual property tax as a percentage of purchase price — check your county assessor's effective rate.1.1 % of price / yr
Homeowners insuranceAnnual premium quoted by your insurer; a placeholder is fine before you shop it.1800 $ / yr
HOA or condo duesMonthly association dues, which lenders count inside the housing ratio.0 $ / mo
Mortgage insurance rateCharged while the loan exceeds 80% of price; set it to 0 if you will put 20% down.0.55 % of loan / yr

It returns

  • Maximum home price — The highest purchase price at which your housing payment still fits inside the binding ratio.
  • Maximum loan amount
  • Maximum monthly PITI
  • Principal & interest inside that PITI
  • Front-end (housing) DTI
  • Back-end (total debt) DTI
  • Down payment as % of price

The formula

L=(BE)1(1+r)nr
DTI=PITI+DG

In plain text: Housing budget = min(f·G, b·G − D); L = (budget − tax − ins − HOA − MI) · (1 − (1 + r)^−n) / r; Price = L + down

  • BHousing budget, the smaller of the front-end and back-end allowances ($/month)
  • GGross monthly income ($/month)
  • DExisting monthly debt payments ($/month)
  • f, bFront-end and back-end DTI ceilings (0.28 and 0.36 conventional; 0.31 and 0.43 FHA) (decimal)
  • EEscrow and mortgage insurance at the solved price: tax + insurance + HOA + MI ($/month)
  • LMaximum loan amount ($)
  • rMonthly interest rate, annual rate ÷ 12 (decimal)
  • nNumber of monthly payments (months)

E depends on the price, and the price depends on E, so the calculator solves the two together numerically rather than in one pass.

Updated Category Mortgages & Home Financing Verified against published test cases Reading time 12 min

What affordability means to an underwriter

Affordability is not a feeling about your budget. To a lender it is two arithmetic tests on gross income, and a file passes or fails on them before anyone looks at your bank statements.

The first test is the front-end ratio, sometimes called the housing ratio. It divides your full monthly housing payment — principal, interest, property tax, homeowners insurance, HOA dues and mortgage insurance, the bundle known as PITI — by your gross monthly income. The second is the back-end ratio, which adds every other recurring debt payment on your credit report to the numerator: car loans, student loans, minimum credit-card payments, child support, alimony.

Both use gross income, before tax. That is deliberate and it is also the reason lender numbers feel high. A borrower earning $90,000 sees roughly $5,800 a month land in the account after federal, state and payroll tax, but the ratios are computed against $7,500. A payment that is 28% of gross is closer to 36% of what you actually receive.

The conventional pair of ceilings is 28% and 36%, a rule of thumb that predates automated underwriting and survives because it is easy to remember. FHA underwriting uses 31% and 43%. Automated systems at Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac will approve back-end ratios well above 36% when the file carries compensating strengths — large reserves, a high credit score, a big down payment — so treat the answer here as the conservative benchmark that a manual underwriter would apply, not as a hard cap.

How the price is worked out from the ratios

The calculation runs in four moves, and the awkward one is the last.

One: find the housing budget. Multiply gross monthly income by the front-end ceiling to get one allowance. Multiply it by the back-end ceiling and subtract your existing debt payments to get the other. The smaller of the two is the most housing payment the guideline permits, and which one is smaller is worth knowing: if the back-end is binding, paying off a car loan directly buys purchasing power, whereas if the front-end is binding, retiring debt changes nothing.

Two: strip out everything that is not loan repayment. Property tax, insurance, HOA dues and mortgage insurance all sit inside PITI, so they eat the same budget. On a typical purchase they consume a quarter to a third of it.

Three: invert the amortised-loan formula. The standard payment formula gives a payment from a loan; here you have the payment and want the loan, so you use the annuity factor the other way round: L = M · (1 − (1 + r)n) / r. At 6% over 30 years that factor is 166.79, so every $1,000 of monthly principal and interest supports $166,792 of loan. The same identity is behind the mortgage payment calculator, read from the other end.

Four: add the down payment. The loan plus your cash is the price.

Step three cannot be done in one pass, because property tax is a percentage of the price and mortgage insurance is a percentage of the loan — both of which are what you are solving for. The calculator handles this by bisection: it guesses a price, computes the full PITI that price implies, and narrows the guess until the PITI lands exactly on the budget.

Worked example: $90,000 income, $500 of debts, $40,000 down

Take the default case — $90,000 of gross household income, $500 a month of existing debt payments, $40,000 of cash, a 6.5% note over 30 years, property tax at 1.1% of price, insurance at $1,800 a year, no HOA, and mortgage insurance at 0.55% of the loan.

  1. Gross monthly income. $90,000 ÷ 12 = $7,500.
  2. Front-end allowance. 0.28 × $7,500 = $2,100.
  3. Back-end allowance. 0.36 × $7,500 = $2,700, less $500 of debts = $2,200.
  4. Housing budget. min($2,100, $2,200) = $2,100. The front-end ratio binds, by $100 a month.
  5. Write PITI as a function of price. Monthly payment per dollar of loan at 6.5% over 360 months is 0.00541667 ÷ 0.8569737 = 0.00632068. Mortgage insurance adds 0.0055 ÷ 12 = 0.00045833 per dollar of loan. Property tax is 0.011 ÷ 12 = 0.00091667 per dollar of price, and insurance is $1,800 ÷ 12 = $150 flat. With the loan equal to price minus $40,000, PITI = 0.00677901 × (P − 40,000) + 0.00091667 × P + 150 = 0.00769568 × P − 121.16.
  6. Set that equal to the budget and solve. 0.00769568 × P − 121.16 = 2,100, so P = 2,221.16 ÷ 0.00769568 = $288,624.
  7. Split the answer back out. Loan = $288,624 − $40,000 = $248,624. Principal and interest = 248,624 × 0.00632068 = $1,571.47. Property tax = 288,624 × 0.00091667 = $264.57. Insurance = $150.00. Mortgage insurance = 248,624 × 0.00045833 = $113.95.
  8. Check. 1,571.47 + 264.57 + 150.00 + 113.95 = $2,100.00, exactly the front-end allowance. Back-end DTI is (2,100 + 500) ÷ 7,500 = 34.67%, inside the 36% ceiling.

The down payment is $40,000 of a $288,624 price, or 13.86%, which is why mortgage insurance appears. Reaching 20% is a simultaneous condition, because the price moves with the cash: solving 0.00723735 × P = 1,950 + 0.00632068 × d with no mortgage insurance and d = 0.2P gives d = $65,293 against a price of $326,466.

How to read the answer

Start with the binding constraint, which the calculator names below the results. If the back-end ratio is binding, your existing debts are the lever: every $100 a month of debt payment you retire moves $100 straight into the housing budget, which at 6.5% over 30 years is roughly $15,800 of additional loan. If the front-end ratio is binding, retiring debt does nothing for the price and only income, down payment or a lower rate will move it.

Next look at the down-payment percentage. Below 20% the loan carries mortgage insurance, and on a conventional loan that charge is not permanent — under the Homeowners Protection Act a servicer must cancel it on written request when the scheduled balance reaches 80% of the original value, and terminate it automatically at 78%. FHA loans behave differently: with less than 10% down the annual mortgage insurance premium runs for the life of the loan.

Then treat the number as a ceiling rather than a target. The ratios say nothing about childcare, medical costs, retirement contributions, commuting or the maintenance a house demands and an apartment does not. A common planning discipline is to shop at 80% of the calculated maximum and keep the difference as the reserve that turns a broken furnace into an inconvenience. The rent vs buy calculator is the better tool for asking whether buying at all makes sense at your holding period.

Finally, note what the rate does. The sensitivity table beneath the results holds everything else fixed and varies only the note rate. In the default case, moving the rate from 6.5% to 7.0% drops the maximum price from $288,624 to $278,332, a fall of 3.6% — and the loan itself falls further in percentage terms than the price does, because the down payment is unaffected by the rate.

Maximum loan supported by $1,000 a month of principal and interest

Annuity factors: L = 1,000 × (1 − (1 + r)−n) / r, with r the annual rate ÷ 12. Scale linearly — $2,100 of budget at 6.5% over 30 years supports 2.1 × $158,211 = $332,243 of loan before escrow is deducted.
Annual rate15 years20 years30 years
5.0%$126,455$151,525$186,282
5.5%$122,387$145,373$176,122
6.0%$118,504$139,581$166,792
6.5%$114,796$134,125$158,211
7.0%$111,256$128,983$150,308
7.5%$107,873$124,132$143,018
8.0%$104,641$119,554$136,283

This table is principal and interest only. Subtract tax, insurance, dues and mortgage insurance from your housing budget before applying it.

Mistakes that make an affordability estimate wrong

  • Using take-home pay. The ratios are defined on gross income. Feeding net pay into a 28% test produces a number roughly a fifth too small.
  • Counting only principal and interest. Escrow and mortgage insurance are inside the housing ratio, and on the default case above they take $528.52 of a $2,100 budget — 25% of it.
  • Forgetting that the down payment is not all cash needed. Closing costs commonly run 2–5% of the price on top, and money spent there is not available for the down payment.
  • Entering the APR instead of the note rate. APR folds fees into a comparison rate; your payment is computed from the note rate, and using the APR understates purchasing power.
  • Assuming the tax rate on the listing. Many jurisdictions reassess at sale, so the seller's current tax bill can be well below what you will pay. Use your county's effective rate on the purchase price.
  • Ignoring income that will not count. Bonus, commission and self-employment income usually need a two-year history before an underwriter will average it in.

Where this sits among the other tests a lender runs

Debt-to-income is one of three gates, and passing it does not mean an approval. The second is loan-to-value, which caps the loan against the appraised value — and against the lower of price and appraisal, which is why a low appraisal kills deals. The third is credit: score drives both eligibility and price, and a rate quote is only as good as the score band it assumes.

There are also product ceilings this calculator does not know about. Conforming loan limits set the boundary between conventional and jumbo pricing and change annually by county. FHA sets its own county-level maximum. If the price here lands above either, the rate you entered probably no longer applies.

Once you have a price, the follow-on questions are handled elsewhere on the site. The amortization schedule calculator shows how the balance actually retires; the extra payment calculator prices early payoff; and if you are carrying consumer debt that is holding the back-end ratio down, the debt avalanche calculator shows the cheapest order to clear it.

One last framing. This tool answers “what will a lender allow”, which is a different question from “what should I spend”. The ratios were written to protect the loan, not the borrower's retirement account.

Key terms

Front-end ratio
Full monthly housing payment divided by gross monthly income. Also called the housing ratio.
Back-end ratio
Housing payment plus all other recurring debt payments, divided by gross monthly income. This is what most people mean by “DTI”.
PITI
Principal, interest, taxes and insurance — the bundle lenders test against the front-end ratio. HOA dues and mortgage insurance are counted in it even though the acronym omits them.
Annuity factor
(1 − (1 + r)−n) / r — the loan amount supported by one dollar of periodic payment. Multiplying by the payment converts a budget into a balance.

Frequently asked questions

How much house can I afford on a $100,000 salary?

About $311,000 at a 6.5% rate with 10% down and no other debts. The arithmetic: $100,000 ÷ 12 = $8,333 of gross monthly income, and 28% of that is $2,333 for housing. With property tax at 1.1%, insurance at $1,800 a year and mortgage insurance at 0.55%, PITI works out to 0.00701778 × P + 150, so P = (2,333 − 150) ÷ 0.00701778 = $311,100. Clearing a $400 car payment would not change it, because the back-end allowance of $3,000 − $400 = $2,600 still exceeds the $2,333 front-end allowance, so the front-end ratio is what binds.

Is the 28/36 rule an actual lending requirement?

No. It is a conservative rule of thumb, not a regulation. Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac automated underwriting routinely approves back-end ratios above 36% — up to 45% or 50% with compensating factors such as reserves, a strong credit score or a large down payment — and FHA files are commonly approved at 43% or beyond. Treat the 28/36 output as the number a cautious manual underwriter would reach, and as a sensible personal ceiling even when a lender will go higher.

Which debts count in the back-end ratio?

Minimum required payments that appear on your credit report or in a court order: auto loans and leases, student loans, credit-card minimums, personal loans, child support and alimony. Utilities, insurance, groceries, phone bills, childcare and retirement contributions do not count, even though they compete for the same paycheck. Student loans in deferment still count — underwriters substitute an imputed payment, commonly 0.5% to 1% of the balance, when no payment is being made.

Why does the calculator show a lower price than my pre-approval letter?

Almost always because the pre-approval used a higher back-end ratio than the guideline you selected, or assumed different escrow figures. Automated underwriting will stretch past 36% on a strong file. Compare the two on the housing payment rather than the price: if the letter implies $2,600 of PITI and this tool allows $2,100, the difference is entirely in the ratio assumption. Switching the guideline selector to FHA 31/43 usually closes most of the gap.

Should I put 20% down to avoid mortgage insurance?

Only if the cash is genuinely spare. Mortgage insurance at 0.55% of a $248,000 loan is about $114 a month and stops once the balance reaches 80% of the original value, whereas cash spent on a down payment is gone from your reserves permanently. Buyers who drain their emergency fund to reach 20% frequently end up financing the first major repair on a credit card at 24%. Reaching 20% is worth doing when it does not cost you your buffer.

Does a bigger down payment raise the price I can afford?

Yes, and by more than the cash itself. Each extra dollar of down payment adds a dollar to the price directly, and it also shrinks the loan, which cuts the principal-and-interest payment and — once you pass 20% — removes mortgage insurance entirely. Both effects free budget that converts back into loan. In the default case above, raising the down payment from $40,000 to $65,293 puts the loan at exactly 80% of value, removes the $113.95 mortgage-insurance charge, and lifts the maximum price from $288,624 to $326,466 — $37,842 more price for $25,293 more cash.

What if my income is variable or self-employed?

Use a two-year average of the income an underwriter will actually see, which for self-employment means net profit after expenses on your tax returns, not gross receipts. Bonus and commission income generally needs a two-year history and is averaged; a single strong year rarely counts. If your two years differ sharply, most guidelines use the lower figure or the average, never the higher one.

Why did the maximum price come back blank?

Because the guideline leaves nothing for a loan. That happens in two ways: your existing debt payments already consume the whole back-end allowance, or the fixed ownership costs — insurance plus HOA dues — reach the housing budget on their own before any principal and interest is added. The warning under the results says which case you are in. Reducing the debt payments, or checking that the HOA and insurance figures are monthly and annual respectively, resolves nearly all blank results.

References