Automotive, Diesel & Motorsports Fuel Economy, EV Charging & Ownership Cost Declining-balance and straight-line depreciation

Vehicle Depreciation Calculator

Depreciation is the largest single cost of owning most vehicles, and it is invisible until you sell. This calculator projects what a car or truck will be worth at the end of each year of ownership using either a declining-balance curve, which matches how used-vehicle values actually behave, or straight-line depreciation to a stated resale value, which is how a lease or a business schedule is usually written. It reports the total value lost, the percentage retained, and the cost per mile so you can compare it directly against fuel and maintenance.

Calculator

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Inputs this calculator takes, with typical values
InputWhat to enterExample
Purchase priceThe out-the-door price you paid, excluding trade-in credit and financing charges.45000 $
Depreciation methodDeclining balance takes a percentage of the remaining value each year; straight line removes an equal dollar amount each year.Declining balance (market values)
First-year depreciation ratePercentage of the purchase price lost in year one; take it from a residual-value guide for your specific model rather than guessing.20 %
Rate for later yearsPercentage of the remaining value lost in each year after the first.15 %
Residual value at end of lifeThe value the vehicle is written down to at the end of its useful life on a straight-line schedule.6000 $
Useful lifeThe number of years the straight-line schedule spreads the loss over; the value floors at the residual after this point.10 yr
Years of ownershipHow long you plan to keep the vehicle before selling or trading it.5 yr
Annual mileageMiles you expect to drive each year; used only to convert the loss into a cost per mile.12000 mi

It returns

  • Value after the ownership period — Projected market value at the end of the years you entered.
  • Total value lost
  • Total lost as a share of price
  • Value retained
  • Average depreciation per year
  • Depreciation per mile — Compare this directly against your fuel cost per mile.

The formula

Vn=P(1d1)(1d)n1
Vn=Pn(PS)L
$/mi=PVnnmiles/yr

In plain text: Declining balance: V_n = P × (1 − d₁) × (1 − d)^(n−1)

  • V_nValue at the end of year n ($)
  • PPurchase price ($)
  • d₁First-year depreciation rate (decimal)
  • dDepreciation rate applied to each later year (decimal)
  • nYears of ownership (years)
  • SResidual value at the end of the useful life (straight line only) ($)
  • LUseful life in years (straight line only) (years)

Declining balance applies a percentage to whatever value remains, so the dollar loss shrinks every year while the percentage stays constant. Straight line removes the same dollar amount every year, so the percentage of remaining value grows.

Updated Category Fuel Economy, EV Charging & Ownership Cost Verified against published test cases Reading time 12 min

Why depreciation is the cost you never see on a receipt

Depreciation is the difference between what you paid for a vehicle and what you get back when you sell it, spread over the time you owned it. Nobody invoices you for it, so it is easy to leave out of a budget entirely — and on a newer vehicle it is normally the largest of the five ownership costs, ahead of fuel, insurance, maintenance and finance charges. A vehicle that loses $23,300 over five years at 12,000 miles a year is costing you 38.8 cents a mile before you have bought a single gallon of fuel.

Two mathematical shapes describe it, and they answer different questions. Declining balance takes a fixed percentage of whatever value remains each year. It produces a curve that falls steeply at first and flattens out, which is how used-vehicle markets actually behave: the dollar loss in year one is far larger than the dollar loss in year eight, even though the percentage is similar. Straight line removes an equal dollar amount each year until the vehicle reaches a stated residual. It does not describe a market, but it is exactly how lease residuals and business depreciation schedules are written, so it is the right model when you are matching a contract rather than predicting a sale price.

The rates themselves are the part you have to source. This calculator does not assume a rate for you, because depreciation varies enormously by model, body style, powertrain and market conditions. Get the number from a residual-value guide for your specific vehicle, or derive it from real listings: if a three-year-old example of your model sells for 60% of its original price, the implied constant annual rate is 1 − 0.60^(1/3) = 15.7%.

Two decisions hinge on the result. First, whether to buy new or used — the steepest part of the curve is spent by the first owner, so a two-year-old vehicle escapes it. Second, when to sell — because the annual dollar loss shrinks along the curve, the cheapest year to own a vehicle is almost always a later one.

The two formulas, and why they disagree

Declining balance is a geometric sequence. Each year you keep the fraction (1 − d) of what you had:

V_n = P × (1 − d₁) × (1 − d)^(n−1)

The first year gets its own rate because a new vehicle crosses from new to used the moment it is registered, and that transition is a one-off. After that a single rate compounds. The important property is that the value never reaches zero — it approaches it asymptotically — which matches reality, since a running vehicle always has some value.

Straight line is arithmetic instead of geometric:

V_n = P − n × (P − S) ÷ L

where S is the residual at the end of a useful life L. The dollar charge is identical every year. Because this line will cross the residual and keep going if you hold the vehicle past its stated life, the calculator floors the value at S.

The two disagree most sharply in the first two years and again at the far end. Straight line understates early loss and overstates late value; declining balance does the reverse against a lease contract. Use declining balance when you are asking what the vehicle will sell for, and straight line when you are matching a schedule someone else wrote.

Both feed the same per-mile figure:

$/mile = (P − V_n) ÷ (n × annual miles)

which is the number that lets you compare depreciation with fuel on equal terms and against a rideshare cost comparison.

Worked example: $40,000 over five years at 20% then 15%

You buy a $40,000 vehicle, expect it to lose 20% in the first year and 15% of its remaining value in each year after, and plan to keep it five years while driving 12,000 miles a year.

  1. Year 1. 40,000 × (1 − 0.20) = $32,000. Loss this year: $8,000.
  2. Year 2. 32,000 × 0.85 = $27,200. Loss: $4,800.
  3. Year 3. 27,200 × 0.85 = $23,120. Loss: $4,080.
  4. Year 4. 23,120 × 0.85 = $19,652. Loss: $3,468.
  5. Year 5. 19,652 × 0.85 = $16,704.20. Loss: $2,947.80.

Totalling up: you lost 40,000 − 16,704.20 = $23,295.80, which is 58.24% of the purchase price, leaving 41.76% retained. That averages $4,659.16 a year, and across 5 × 12,000 = 60,000 miles it is 38.83 cents per mile.

The averages hide the shape, and the shape is the useful part. Year one cost $8,000 and year five cost $2,947.80 — the same 15% rate applied to a smaller base. If you had bought the same vehicle at two years old for $27,200 and kept it three years to the same point, you would have lost 27,200 − 16,704.20 = $10,495.80 instead of $23,295.80, for the identical vehicle at the identical end state.

Compare the straight-line treatment of the same vehicle: $40,000 down to a $6,000 residual over 10 years is $3,400 every year, so after five years the schedule says $23,000 — nearly $6,300 above the declining-balance projection. That gap is why a lease that ends early can leave you owing more than the vehicle is worth.

How to read the result

Compare depreciation per mile against your fuel cost per mile. Both are in cents per mile, so the comparison is direct, and on a newer vehicle depreciation usually wins by a wide margin. Put numbers on it with the worked example below: depreciation runs 38.83 cents a mile, while improving fuel economy from 20 to 25 mpg at $4 a gallon saves 20.0 − 16.0 = 4.0 cents a mile. Buying the same vehicle two years old instead cuts the depreciation figure to 10,495.80 ÷ 36,000 = 29.2 cents a mile, a saving more than twice as large as the fuel-economy gain.

Read the year-by-year table, not just the total. The cheapest year to own the vehicle is the one with the smallest dollar loss, and you read it straight off the Lost in year column. Whenever the first-year rate you enter is at least as large as the later-year rate — the normal shape for a used-vehicle curve — that column falls monotonically and the cheapest year is the last one shown. Enter a first-year rate smaller than the later-year rate and the order can reverse, which is why the calculator flags that combination. This is the arithmetic behind the advice to buy a few years old and hold: you skip the steepest years and stop before the curve has flattened into irrelevance.

Treat percentage retained as the comparable figure across vehicles. Dollar losses are not comparable between a $25,000 car and a $75,000 truck, but percentage retained is. It is also the figure residual guides publish, so it is the one you can check your assumptions against.

Sanity-check your rate against a real listing. Find your model at the age you are projecting and back the rate out: if an n-year-old example sells for a fraction f of its original price, the implied constant rate is 1 − f^(1/n). Doing this once, with real prices, is worth more than any default rate.

Do not use this schedule for a tax return. Business vehicle depreciation in the United States follows MACRS with specific recovery periods, conventions and passenger-automobile limits set out in IRS Publications 946 and 463. Those rules produce different numbers from a market-value curve, and only the IRS schedule is acceptable to the IRS.

Percentage of purchase price retained, by rate pair

Each cell is (1 − d₁) × (1 − d)^(n−1) expressed as a percentage. Choose the column that matches the rates you can support for your model.
Year15% then 12%20% then 15%25% then 18%30% then 20%
185.0080.0075.0070.00
274.8068.0061.5056.00
365.8257.8050.4344.80
457.9349.1341.3535.84
550.9741.7633.9128.67
644.8635.5027.8122.94
739.4730.1722.8018.35

These are illustrative rate pairs, not observed market data. Substitute rates taken from a residual guide or from real listings for your model before relying on a projection.

What this calculator does not account for

  • Mileage above or below average. The curve here is driven by age alone. Trade-in appraisals penalise high mileage separately, so a vehicle at 25,000 miles a year will fall faster than any age-based curve predicts.
  • Condition, accident history and service records. A reported accident can cost more value than a year of age, and none of it appears in the arithmetic.
  • Market shocks. Fuel price swings, supply disruptions and model redesigns move whole segments at once. A rate calibrated in one market is not valid in another.
  • Options and colour. Some options are recovered on resale and some are not. The purchase price you enter includes all of them; the resale value may not.
  • Taxes, fees and finance charges. The purchase price field should be the vehicle price. Sales tax and registration are real costs but are not recovered on resale in the way the vehicle itself is.
  • The tax treatment of a business vehicle. MACRS recovery is a separate calculation with its own conventions and limits; see IRS Publication 946.
  • Modifications. Aftermarket parts rarely return their cost, so a modified vehicle usually retains a smaller share of its total spend than this projection suggests.

Depreciation among the other costs of ownership

Total cost of ownership has five components: depreciation, fuel or electricity, insurance, maintenance and repair, and finance charges. This calculator handles the first, which AAA's annual Your Driving Costs study reports as the largest single component of new-vehicle ownership cost. Once you have the per-mile figure, the others can be added to it on the same basis to get a single cost per mile that makes any two options comparable.

That per-mile number is the right input for several other decisions. Comparing driving against a car service or public transport uses it directly — see the rideshare versus driving cost calculator and the transit pass versus driving calculator, both of which need a per-mile cost that includes depreciation to be honest. Splitting costs with passengers on a shared commute uses it too, through the carpool cost split calculator.

On the vehicle side, choices that change value are worth checking against the curve before you make them. Fitting larger tires and regearing, for instance, costs real money that is unlikely to come back on resale — the axle gear ratio calculator and the tire diameter calculator tell you what those changes do mechanically, but this page tells you what the vehicle is worth while you are doing them.

A last word on method. Declining balance with two rates is a two-parameter fit to a curve that real markets follow only approximately. It captures the essential shape — steep then flattening — and that is enough for a buying decision. It is not a valuation. When money genuinely turns on the number, get an actual appraisal or price real listings of the same model, year and mileage.

Key terms

Declining balance
A depreciation method that applies a fixed percentage to the remaining value each period, so the dollar charge falls every year and the value approaches but never reaches zero.
Residual value
The value a vehicle is assumed to have at the end of a defined term. In a lease it is set at signing and determines the monthly payment; on a straight-line schedule it is where the line stops.
Value retained
Current value as a percentage of purchase price. The standard basis for comparing depreciation across vehicles of different prices.
MACRS
The Modified Accelerated Cost Recovery System, the depreciation method required for most business property in the United States. It is a tax calculation, not a market-value estimate.
Total cost of ownership
Depreciation plus fuel or electricity, insurance, maintenance, repairs and finance charges, usually expressed per mile or per year.

Frequently asked questions

How much does a new car lose in the first year?

It varies too much by model to quote one figure, which is why this calculator asks you for the rate rather than assuming one. Get it from a residual-value guide for your specific vehicle, or work it out from listings: find a one-year-old example of your model, divide its asking price by the original price, and subtract from one. Body style, powertrain and trim all move the answer substantially.

Should I use declining balance or straight line?

Use declining balance when you are estimating what the vehicle will actually sell for, because used values fall by a proportion of what remains rather than by a fixed dollar amount. Use straight line when you are matching a written schedule — a lease residual, a fleet policy, or a book-value calculation — where the terms specify equal annual amounts to a stated end value.

Is depreciation really more than fuel?

On a newer vehicle it usually is, which is why AAA's Your Driving Costs reports depreciation as the single largest line in the ownership cost of a new car. Run your own numbers rather than trusting an average: this calculator gives depreciation in cents per mile, and fuel cost per mile is your fuel price divided by your miles per gallon. In the worked example above, depreciation alone is 38.83 cents per mile — more than the fuel bill of a 25 mpg vehicle at $4 a gallon, which is 16 cents. Comparing the two directly is usually the moment the buy-new-versus-buy-used question resolves itself.

Does high mileage make depreciation worse?

Yes, but not in a way this age-based curve models. Appraisal guides apply a separate mileage adjustment on top of the age-based value, so a vehicle driven 25,000 miles a year will be worth less at any given age than one driven 10,000. Increasing the annual mileage field here lowers the cost per mile because it spreads the same loss over more miles — it does not increase the total loss. Treat the per-mile figure as optimistic if you drive well above average.

Can I use this for my tax return?

No. Business vehicle depreciation in the United States follows MACRS, with prescribed recovery periods, half-year or mid-quarter conventions, and specific limits on passenger automobiles, all set out in IRS Publications 946 and 463. Those rules produce a different number from a market-value projection, and only the IRS method is acceptable for a return. Use this page for buying and selling decisions.

Why does the value never reach zero on declining balance?

Because each year removes a percentage of what is left rather than a fixed amount, so the remaining value gets smaller without ever being exhausted. Mathematically it approaches zero asymptotically. That matches reality reasonably well — an old but running vehicle always has some value — but it means projections beyond about ten years are dominated by condition and local demand rather than by the curve.

What is a good value-retained percentage after five years?

There is no universal figure, and any number quoted without a source and a segment is worth ignoring. What is useful is the comparison: look up published five-year retention figures for the specific models you are choosing between, enter the implied rates here, and compare the dollar losses on the prices you would actually pay. A model that retains a higher percentage of a higher price does not automatically cost less.

Does buying used really avoid most of the depreciation?

It avoids the steepest part of the curve, which is the first year or two. In the worked example on this page, buying the same vehicle at two years old and holding it three years costs $10,495.80 in depreciation, against $23,295.80 for the first owner reaching the identical end state. The trade-off is that a used vehicle carries more maintenance risk and usually a higher finance rate, so compare total cost of ownership rather than depreciation alone.

References