Everyday Life & Household Shopping, Discounts & Purchase Decisions FTC Guides Against Deceptive Pricing (16 CFR 233)

Sale Price & Discount Calculator

Enter what you know and this calculator fills in the rest of the deal. Give it an original price and a percent off — plus a second stacked coupon, a dollars-off code and your sales tax rate if you have them — and you get the sale price per item, what you actually save, the effective discount after stacking, and the total that leaves your card at the register. Switch modes to work backwards instead: from a sale tag and a claimed percentage to the original price, or from an original price and a sale price to the discount the store is really giving you.

Calculator

This calculator runs in your browser. Enable JavaScript for live results — the inputs, formula and worked example below remain fully readable without it.

Inputs this calculator takes, with typical values
InputWhat to enterExample
What are you solving for?Pick the one quantity you do not have; enter the other two below.Sale price — I know the original price and the discount
Original priceThe pre-discount price of one item, as printed on the tag or the regular-price line.89.99 $
Sale priceThe marked-down price of one item, before sales tax.62.99 $
Percent offThe headline markdown, e.g. enter 30 for a 30% off sign.30 %
Second coupon (extra percent off)A stacked code such as an extra 15% off already-reduced items; leave at 0 if you have only one.0 %
Dollars off, per itemA flat amount such as a $5 reward certificate, expressed per item rather than per basket.0 $
Apply the dollars-off before the percentagesTick this only if the register takes the flat amount off first, which costs you more whenever a percentage coupon is also in play.No
Sales tax rateYour combined state, county and city rate; set it to 0 to see the pre-tax figures only.7.25 %
QuantityHow many identical items you are buying at this price.1

It returns

  • Sale price per item — After every coupon, before sales tax.
  • Total at the register — Sale price times quantity, plus sales tax.
  • You save, all items
  • Effective discount — One number that captures every stacked coupon at once.
  • Original price per item
  • Sales tax

The formula

S=P(1d1)(1d2)F
deff=1SP
P=S+F(1d1)(1d2)
P=S(1d1)(1d2)+F
Total=Sq(1+t)

In plain text: S = P × (1 − d₁) × (1 − d₂) − F, d_eff = 1 − S / P

  • SSale price of one item, after every coupon and before tax ($)
  • POriginal price of one item ($)
  • d₁Headline discount as a decimal (30% = 0.30) (decimal)
  • d₂Second stacked percentage coupon as a decimal (decimal)
  • FFlat dollars-off coupon applied per item ($)
  • d_effEffective discount: everything above expressed as one percentage (decimal)
  • qQuantity bought at this price (items)
  • tCombined sales tax rate as a decimal (decimal)

S is floored at zero — coupons worth more than the item make it free, not profitable. Percentages always multiply; only the flat amount is a subtraction, and where it sits in the sequence changes the answer whenever at least one percentage is above zero. With no percentage coupon at all the two orders coincide.

Updated Category Shopping, Discounts & Purchase Decisions Verified against published test cases Reading time 13 min

What a percent off actually means

A percentage discount is a multiplication, not a subtraction. When a sign says 30% off, the store is telling you that you pay 70% of the tag: the discount rate d defines a keep fraction of 1 − d, and the sale price is the original price times that fraction. Everything else on this page follows from that one idea.

Thinking in keep fractions rather than in percentages off is what stops the two errors shoppers make most. First, it makes stacking obvious — two coupons multiply their keep fractions, so 20% off followed by an extra 15% off leaves 0.80 × 0.85 = 0.68 of the price, a 32% discount rather than 35%. Second, it makes reversing trivial: if you know you paid 68% of the original, you divide by 0.68 to get back to the original price.

Judge a deal on the effective discount: one minus the price you end up paying divided by the price you would otherwise have paid. It absorbs every coupon, stacked code and flat reward certificate into one figure you can hold against another store's. This calculator reports it in every mode, including the two where you never type a percentage at all.

The formula, and why the order of coupons changes the answer

Start with the price of one item, P. Apply each percentage coupon as a keep fraction, then subtract any flat dollars-off amount, and floor the result at zero:

S = P × (1 − d₁) × (1 − d₂) − F

The percentages commute with each other — 20% then 15% gives the same answer as 15% then 20%, because multiplication does not care about order. The flat amount does not commute with them unless every percentage is zero. Taking $5 off a $50 item first and then 10% off gives (50 − 5) × 0.90 = $40.50, while taking the 10% first and then the $5 gives 50 × 0.90 − 5 = $40.00. Do it symbolically and the gap is exact: flat-first costs (PFk, percentage-first costs P·kF, and subtracting one from the other leaves F(1 − k), where k is the combined keep fraction and neither price has hit the zero floor. Here that is $5 × (1 − 0.90) = $0.50. The flat coupon loses value in proportion to whatever discount comes after it, and at k = 1 — no percentage at all — the two orders give the same price.

That is not a trivia point, because store policy decides the order and the coupon's own terms are where that policy is written down. Read them, set the checkbox in the coupon group to match, and price it both ways when the wording is ambiguous so you know which number to expect at the register.

Two more relationships close the system. Rearranging for P gives P = (S + F) / ((1 − d₁)(1 − d₂)), which is how the calculator recovers an original price from a sale tag. And the effective discount is defined directly from the two prices, d_eff = 1 − S / P, with no reference to any coupon at all — which is why it still works when a store simply prints two numbers and never tells you the percentage. If you want to practise that operation on its own, the percentage calculator and the percentage change calculator handle the bare arithmetic.

Finally, quantity and tax sit outside all of it: Total = S × q × (1 + t). Sales tax is charged on what you actually pay, so a discount reduces your tax bill in proportion — one of the few places where a saving compounds slightly in your favour.

Worked example: a $89.99 jacket, two coupons and a $5 certificate

The jacket is marked $89.99. The sign says 30% off, your email code gives an extra 15% off sale items, and you have a $5 reward certificate. Sales tax is 7.25% and you are buying two.

  1. Turn each percentage into a keep fraction. 30% off keeps 1 − 0.30 = 0.70. The extra 15% keeps 1 − 0.15 = 0.85.
  2. Multiply them. 0.70 × 0.85 = 0.595. You pay 59.5% of the tag, so the two coupons together are worth 40.5% off — not the 45% you get by adding the signs.
  3. Apply the percentages. 89.99 × 0.595 = $53.54.
  4. Subtract the flat certificate. 53.544 − 5 = $48.54 per jacket.
  5. Work out the effective discount. 48.544 ÷ 89.99 = 0.5394, so d_eff = 1 − 0.5394 = 46.06% off.
  6. Find the saving. 89.99 − 48.544 = $41.45 per jacket; across two jackets that is $82.89.
  7. Add quantity and tax. Subtotal 48.544 × 2 = $97.09. Tax at 7.25% is 97.088 × 0.0725 = $7.04. Total at the register = $104.13.

Two things are worth noticing. The effective 46.06% is higher than the 40.5% from the percentages alone, because the flat $5 is a bigger slice of an already-reduced price than it would be of the original. And had the store taken the $5 off first, you would have paid (89.99 − 5) × 0.595 = $50.57 per jacket — $2.03 more each, which is precisely 0.405 × $5 of certificate value handed back to the store.

How to read the result

Read the effective discount and the sale price together, because neither settles a comparison alone. The effective discount tells you how much of its own reference price a store has given up; the sale price tells you what you hand over. If one store quotes 40% off and another 25% off, but the second store's regular price is lower, only the two sale prices decide it — which is why the calculator reports both.

Be sceptical of the original price itself. An effective discount is only as meaningful as the number it is measured against, and a "was" price that nothing ever sold at inflates every percentage derived from it. Use the reverse-solve mode on any tag that quotes both a percentage and a price: if the arithmetic does not reconcile, the sign and the tag were not produced from the same original.

There is no universal threshold for a good discount, and any single figure quoted as one is a category average wearing a disguise. Markdown depth is set by gross margin: categories that carry a wide margin — apparel, furniture, jewellery — have room to advertise deep percentages, while categories that turn on a thin one, such as grocery staples and consumer electronics, do not. A 40% sign therefore means something quite different in two different aisles. The reliable test is comparative, not absolute: check the sale price against a price you can verify somewhere else, and against what the item is likely to cost if you wait for the next promotion.

Finally, judge the total, not the saving. A 60% discount on something you will not use costs you the full sale price; the saving is only real relative to a purchase you were going to make anyway. If the item is a recurring cost rather than a one-off, price it over a year — the subscription cost audit calculator does that job for anything billed monthly.

What two stacked coupons are really worth

Effective discount from stacking a second percentage coupon on top of the first, computed as 1 − (1 − a)(1 − b). Read down for the headline markdown, across for the extra code.
Headline markdown+10% code+15% code+20% code+25% code
10% off19.0%23.5%28.0%32.5%
20% off28.0%32.0%36.0%40.0%
25% off32.5%36.3%40.0%43.8%
30% off37.0%40.5%44.0%47.5%
40% off46.0%49.0%52.0%55.0%
50% off55.0%57.5%60.0%62.5%
70% off73.0%74.5%76.0%77.5%

Every cell is below the sum of its row and column headings, and the shortfall equals a × b — the discount the second coupon does not get to take because the first one already removed it.

What a "regular price" is supposed to mean

In the United States, comparative price advertising is governed by the Federal Trade Commission's Guides Against Deceptive Pricing, 16 CFR Part 233. The guides treat a former-price comparison as deceptive when the higher figure is not the price at which the article was actually and openly offered for a reasonably substantial period of time in the recent regular course of business — an artificial inflated price used only to make a markdown look bigger is the specific practice they address. Several states add their own reference-price rules on top. Any percentage this calculator reports inherits the honesty of the original price you feed it, so treat a suspicious "was" figure as the thing to verify first.

Mistakes that make a discount look better than it is

  • Adding stacked percentages. 30% plus an extra 20% is 44% off, not 50%. The gap is the product of the two rates, so it widens as the coupons get bigger.
  • Assuming a markup and a markdown cancel. A price raised 20% and then cut 20% lands at 1.20 × 0.80 = 0.96 of where it started — 4% below, not level. Percentages taken off different bases never cancel.
  • Forgetting sales tax on the comparison. Tax scales with price, so a cheaper sale price also carries less tax. Compare totals, not shelf prices, when you are weighing an in-store deal against an online one with a different tax treatment.
  • Applying a per-basket coupon per item. This calculator treats the dollars-off amount as applying to each item. If your $10 code is one per order, enter it with a quantity of 1 and add the remaining items separately.
  • Ignoring what you give up to get the coupon. A threshold code that needs $75 in the basket is only a discount if the extra items were things you wanted.
  • Reading the percentage instead of the price. The percentage measures the store's generosity relative to its own reference price; the price measures your outcome.

Where this sits among the other price calculations

Discount arithmetic is the consumer-facing half of a pair. The retailer's half is markup and margin, and the two are not mirror images: a 50% margin corresponds to a 100% markup on cost, because margin is measured against the selling price and markup against the cost. When you reverse-solve an original price here, you are recovering the store's reference price, not its cost — nothing on a tag tells you the cost.

Sales tax deserves its own treatment once more than one rate is involved, and a separate sales tax calculator handles combined state, county and city rates and tax-inclusive back-outs. For the underlying operations — taking a percentage of a number, or expressing one number as a change from another — the percentage increase and decrease calculator is the general-purpose tool this page specialises.

One tax subtlety shows up on receipts. Under the definition of "sales price" used by Streamlined Sales and Use Tax Agreement member states, a discount the seller grants and is not reimbursed for reduces the taxable amount, while a coupon the retailer is reimbursed for by a manufacturer generally does not. This calculator assumes the seller-discount case, which covers ordinary markdowns and store codes; rules vary by state, so check yours if a receipt disagrees.

When the cost is shared, hand the discounted total to the split the bill calculator, and any gratuity on it to the tip calculator.

Key terms

Keep fraction
What is left after a discount, written as a decimal: 1 − d. A 35% discount has a keep fraction of 0.65. Stacked coupons multiply their keep fractions.
Effective discount
The single percentage that would produce your final pre-tax price in one step: 1 − S / P. The only discount figure worth comparing across stores.
Stacking
Applying more than one offer to the same item. Percentage coupons stack multiplicatively; a flat dollars-off coupon stacks by subtraction and its value depends on where in the sequence the register applies it.
Former price
The reference price a markdown is advertised against. Under the FTC guides it is expected to be a price at which the item was actually and openly offered, not a figure invented to size the discount.
Sales price
The tax base. In Streamlined Sales Tax member states it excludes discounts the seller grants and is not reimbursed for, which is why a store markdown normally reduces the tax you pay.

Frequently asked questions

How do I calculate 30% off a price in my head?

Multiply by 0.7. A 30% discount leaves 70% of the price, so $89.99 × 0.7 = $62.99. If multiplying by 0.7 is awkward, take 10% by moving the decimal one place ($9.00), triple it ($27.00), and subtract: 89.99 − 27.00 = $62.99. The same trick works for any multiple of 10%, and for 5% steps take half of the 10% figure.

Do two coupons stack to the sum of their percentages?

No — stacked percentages multiply, so the combined discount is always smaller than the sum whenever both are above zero. Taking 20% and then an extra 15% leaves 0.80 × 0.85 = 0.68 of the price, which is 32% off rather than 35%. The shortfall equals the product of the two rates, here 0.20 × 0.15 = 3 percentage points. Enter both coupons above and the calculator reports the combined figure directly.

How do I find the original price from a sale price?

Divide the sale price by the keep fraction. Switch this calculator to Original price mode, enter the sale price and the advertised percentage, and it computes P = S ÷ (1 − d). A $45 tag advertised at 40% off came from 45 ÷ 0.60 = $75. If a flat dollars-off coupon was also applied, add it back before dividing — P = (S + F) ÷ (1 − d) — unless the register took the flat amount off first, in which case you divide first and add the coupon afterwards. The calculator does whichever the checkbox says.

Is sales tax charged before or after the discount?

After — you are taxed on what you actually pay. In states using the Streamlined Sales and Use Tax Agreement definition of sales price, a discount the seller grants and is not reimbursed for reduces the taxable amount, so a markdown lowers your tax in proportion. A manufacturer coupon that the retailer is reimbursed for generally does not reduce the tax base. Rules vary by state, so check yours if a receipt looks wrong.

If a price goes up 20% and then comes down 20%, am I back where I started?

No, you end up 4% below the starting price. The increase and the decrease are taken on different bases: 1.20 × 0.80 = 0.96. The same asymmetry means a 50% cut needs a 100% increase to undo it. This is why you should compare the two actual prices rather than reasoning from the percentages, and why the effective discount in this calculator is always derived from prices.

Why does my sale price stop at zero instead of going negative?

Because retailers cap a coupon at the value of the item rather than paying you the difference. If your percentage and flat coupons together exceed the price, the calculator holds the sale price at $0.00, reports a 100% effective discount, and flags the situation in a note. If your store credits the excess to the rest of the basket, apply the leftover amount to another item rather than expecting it here.

Does it matter whether the store applies a dollars-off coupon before or after the percentage?

Yes, whenever a percentage coupon is also in play — and flat-first is the order that costs you more. On a $50 item with 10% off and a $5 certificate, flat-first gives (50 − 5) × 0.90 = $40.50 and percentage-first gives 50 × 0.90 − 5 = $40.00, a gap of 0.10 × $5 = $0.50. In general the gap is the coupon value times the combined discount rate, so it widens as the percentage deepens; with no percentage coupon at all the two orders give exactly the same price. Use the checkbox in the coupon group to price both before you get to the register.

What effective discount should I hold out for?

There is no fixed number, because the benchmark is the category rather than the percentage. Markdown depth follows gross margin, so a category with room in its margin — apparel, furniture, jewellery — can advertise a far deeper percentage than groceries or consumer electronics ever will without the deal being any better for you. Judge the sale price against a price you can verify at another retailer, and treat the store's own reference price as a claim to check rather than a baseline to measure from.

Can I use this to work out a markdown I am setting as a seller?

Yes — enter your regular price and the percentage you plan to advertise, and the sale price and margin implications follow from the sale price you see. Remember that the reference price you advertise against carries legal weight: the FTC Guides Against Deceptive Pricing expect a former price to be one at which you actually and openly offered the item for a reasonably substantial time, and several states impose additional reference-price rules.

References

  • Guides Against Deceptive Pricing, 16 CFR Part 233 — U.S. Federal Trade Commission
  • Streamlined Sales and Use Tax Agreement — definition of "sales price" — Streamlined Sales Tax Governing Board, Inc.
  • State and Local Sales Tax Rates (annual report) — Tax Foundation
  • Business Mathematics, 14th ed. — Pearson