Paint Coverage Calculator (Gallons Needed)

Give this calculator a room's dimensions, the number of coats and the spread rate printed on the can, and it returns the gallons you actually have to buy — walls, ceiling, trim and primer costed separately, because they are three different products in three different sheens. It deducts door and window area, rounds each product up to whole cans the way a paint counter will, and shows how sensitive the answer is to the spread rate, which is the single number most estimates get wrong.

Calculator

This calculator runs in your browser. Enable JavaScript for live results — the inputs, formula and worked example below remain fully readable without it.

Inputs this calculator takes, with typical values
InputWhat to enterExample
Room lengthThe longer wall. For an exterior, use the building's longer footprint dimension.16 ft
Room widthThe shorter dimension, measured the same way as the length.12 ft
Wall heightFloor to ceiling inside, or grade to soffit outside.8 ft
Openings to deductDoor and window area. A 3-0 × 6-8 door is 20 ft²; a 3 × 5 window is 15 ft².60 ft²
Paint the ceiling tooTicking this adds length × width as a separate ceiling-paint quantity.Yes
Coats of finish paintTwo coats is the normal specification. One coat only works over the same colour in the same sheen.2 coats (standard)
Spread rate of the finish paintRead it off the can — most interior latex states 350–400 ft² per gallon on a smooth primed surface.350 ft²/gal
Price per gallonYour shelf price for one gallon. Used for a single blended cost across all the products.45 $
Coats of primerNew drywall, bare wood, patched areas and any drastic colour change want at least one coat.1 coat
Spread rate of the primerPrimer usually covers less ground than finish paint — check the can, commonly 250–350 ft² per gallon.300 ft²/gal
Trim to paintTotal run of baseboard, casing and crown. The room perimeter is a reasonable starting figure.56 lf
Developed width of the trimGirth of the painted face measured around the profile — about 6 in for a 3½ in base with its top edge.6 in

It returns

  • Finish paint for walls and ceiling — Exact requirement before rounding to whole cans.
  • Net paintable wall area
  • Wall paint
  • Ceiling paint
  • Trim paint
  • Primer
  • Whole gallons to buy — Each product rounded up on its own, because you cannot split a can between colours.
  • Material cost

The formula

G=Acs
Awall=2(L+W)HAopen
Atrim=lg12

In plain text: Gallons = A × c ÷ s

  • GGallons of paint required (gal)
  • ANet paintable area after deducting openings (ft²)
  • cNumber of coats (count)
  • sSpread rate stated on the can (ft²/gal)

Each product — wall paint, ceiling paint, trim paint, primer — is calculated and rounded up on its own, because you cannot pour half a can of one colour into another.

Updated Category Finishes, Cladding & Insulation Verified against published test cases Reading time 12 min

What actually determines how much paint you need

Three numbers decide a paint order: the area, the number of coats, and the spread rate. Area and coats are easy — you measure one and choose the other. The spread rate is where estimates go wrong, because the figure on the can describes an ideal surface and yours almost never is.

A gallon of interior latex is typically labelled at 350 to 400 square feet. That number assumes a smooth, sealed, previously painted wall, rolled at a normal film build. Put the same gallon on unprimed drywall and the paper drinks it; put it on a knockdown texture and the added surface area alone eats a quarter of the coverage before absorption is considered. Spray it and you lose material to overspray and to the higher film thickness a sprayer lays down.

This calculator therefore treats the spread rate as an input you are meant to think about, and shows a sensitivity table so you can see what your uncertainty is worth in cans. It also separates the four products a room really needs: wall paint, ceiling paint (flat, usually a different can), trim paint (semi-gloss or satin, usually a different base) and primer. Rounding them together would hide the fact that you are going home with four partly used gallons.

The formula, term by term

The core relation is G = A × c ÷ s and every term is doing real work.

A, the net area. Walls are the perimeter times the height: 2(L + W) × H. Deduct the doors and windows at full area. A 3-0 × 6-8 door is 20 ft², a 3 × 5 window is 15 ft². Painters argue about whether to deduct small openings at all — the practical convention is to deduct anything larger than about 15 ft² and ignore the rest, on the grounds that cutting in around a small window costs more paint in edge work than the opening saves.

c, the coats. Two is the standard specification and the one you should assume unless you are refreshing an identical colour in an identical sheen. Deep reds, strong yellows and any dark-to-light change need three, because the pigment loads that make those colours vivid are exactly the ones with poor hiding power.

s, the spread rate. Square feet per gallon at the recommended film thickness. It is a property of the product and the substrate. Halving it doubles your order, which is why the table below sweeps it rather than assuming it.

Trim is an area too. Trim is quoted in lineal feet but painted by the square foot, so multiply the run by the developed width — the girth of the painted profile, measured around the shape rather than across it. A 3½ in baseboard with its top edge and a small shoe develops roughly 6 in per lineal foot. Fifty-six feet of that is 28 ft², which is a quart, not a gallon.

Primer covers everything once. Primer goes on walls, ceiling and trim, so its area is the sum of all three, times the number of primer coats, divided by the primer's own spread rate — which is usually lower than the finish paint's because primer is formulated to seal rather than to build a film.

Worked example: a 16 × 12 ft bedroom with an 8 ft ceiling

Two coats of eggshell on the walls at 350 ft² per gallon, the same paint on the ceiling, one coat of primer at 300 ft² per gallon, 56 lf of 6 in trim, one door and two windows totalling 60 ft², paint at $45 a gallon.

  1. Perimeter. 2 × (16 + 12) = 56 ft.
  2. Gross wall area. 56 × 8 = 448 ft².
  3. Net wall area. 448 − 60 = 388 ft².
  4. Ceiling area. 16 × 12 = 192 ft².
  5. Trim area. 56 lf × 6 in ÷ 12 = 28 ft².
  6. Wall paint. 388 × 2 ÷ 350 = 2.22 gal.
  7. Ceiling paint. 192 × 2 ÷ 350 = 1.10 gal.
  8. Trim paint. 28 × 2 ÷ 350 = 0.16 gal — one quart.
  9. Primer. (388 + 192 + 28) × 1 ÷ 300 = 608 ÷ 300 = 2.03 gal.
  10. Cans to buy. 3 wall + 2 ceiling + 1 trim + 3 primer = 9 gallons, or $405.

Look hard at the primer line. It is the largest single quantity in the job, because primer covers every surface once at a lower spread rate, while the finish paints each cover only their own surface. If the walls were already painted and sound, dropping primer to zero coats takes the order from nine cans to six and the cost from $405 to $270.

Look at the rounding too. The exact requirement is 2.22 + 1.10 + 0.16 + 2.03 = 5.51 gallons, but you buy nine cans. That 3.5 gallon gap is not waste in the estimate — it is the unavoidable consequence of four products that cannot share a can. Buying the ceiling paint in a 5 gallon pail because you are doing three bedrooms is how professionals close that gap.

How to read the result

Start with the gallons-per-100-square-feet check. At two coats and 350 ft² per gallon, you need 0.57 gallons per 100 ft² of surface. If your result is far from that ratio, something is off in the dimensions or the coat count.

Next, read the sensitivity table rather than the headline. It sweeps the spread rate from 250 to 450 ft² per gallon and shows what each assumption costs in whole cans. If the can count is the same across the whole sweep, your estimate is robust and you can order confidently. If it changes by two or more cans, the spread rate is doing all the work and you should look up the real figure for your product and substrate before you buy.

Then check whether you are near a rounding boundary. An exact requirement of 3.02 gallons and one of 3.98 gallons both cost four cans, but the first leaves you with almost a full gallon on the shelf. If you land just over a whole number, it is often worth adjusting: a slightly better roller cover, a primer that seals rather than one that builds, or accepting that the closet gets the same colour.

Finally, remember that a 5 gallon pail is normally cheaper per gallon than five separate cans and eliminates any batch-to-batch shift in a custom tint. Once one colour crosses about five gallons, price the pail.

Typical spread rates by surface

Practitioner rules of thumb for a brushed or rolled coat. Always check the figure printed on your own can — it governs. The last column is simply 1,000 ÷ the spread rate.
SurfaceTypical spread rateGallons per 1,000 ft², one coat
Smooth, primed, previously painted drywall400 ft²/gal2.50
New drywall, unprimed300 ft²/gal3.33
Light orange-peel texture325 ft²/gal3.08
Heavy knockdown texture250 ft²/gal4.00
Smooth wood trim, brushed400 ft²/gal2.50
Rough-sawn or cedar siding200 ft²/gal5.00
Stucco150 ft²/gal6.67
Bare concrete block, first coat125 ft²/gal8.00

Rough and porous surfaces cost you twice — extra true surface area and extra absorption — which is why block and stucco run at a third of the rate of smooth drywall.

Buy the primer decision, not the primer

Primer is worth a coat when the substrate is new, patched, stained, glossy, or a drastically different colour from the finish. It is not worth a coat over a sound, matte, similar-coloured painted wall — a coat of the finish paint does the same job and gets you closer to a finished surface.

The exception is a strong colour change. A tinted primer in a shade close to the finish colour will save you a whole finish coat on a dark-to-light change, and primer is normally cheaper per gallon than a premium finish paint. In that case the primer coat pays for itself directly.

Common mistakes in a paint estimate

  • Taking the spread rate from the can without adjusting for the surface. The printed figure assumes a smooth sealed substrate. Texture and porosity can cut it by half.
  • Forgetting the second coat. Doubling the coats doubles the paint. It is the largest single error in amateur estimates.
  • Rounding all products together. Wall, ceiling, trim and primer are separate cans. Adding the decimals and rounding once understates the order every time.
  • Quoting trim in lineal feet and buying by the gallon. Convert to area using the developed width around the profile, not the face width.
  • Deducting every small opening. Cutting in around a small window costs more paint in edge work than the opening saves. Deduct openings above roughly 15 ft² and ignore the rest.
  • Ignoring the substrate on exteriors. Rough-sawn siding and stucco run at a fraction of the rate of smooth drywall — a two-coat exterior can need three times the paint per square foot of an interior.
  • Buying five separate gallons of a custom tint. Batch-to-batch variation is real. Above roughly five gallons, buy the pail or box the cans together before you start.

What this calculator does not model

It assumes a rectangular room with flat walls and a flat ceiling, one wall colour, one ceiling colour, and brush or roller application. It does not model spray transfer efficiency, which consumes measurably more material than rolling because some atomised paint never lands and the wet film is thicker — for spray work, reduce the spread rate you enter rather than adding a percentage afterwards.

It does not account for accent walls in a second colour, wallpaper removal, skim coating, gable ends, dormers, or the sloped area of a vaulted ceiling. For a vault, work out the true sloped area first with the roof area calculator and enter it as your ceiling dimensions.

It prices everything at one gallon price, which is a simplification: primer, ceiling flat and trim enamel rarely cost the same. Use the gallon counts and price them individually if the budget matters. For a whole-project material and labour figure, the cost per square foot calculator and the construction labor hours calculator take it from there.

Where paint sits in the sequence

Paint is the last wet trade in a room, and its quantity depends on decisions made two trades earlier. The texture applied over the drywall sets your spread rate; the finish level agreed with the drywall contractor sets whether the wall is smooth enough to take a sheen without telegraphing every joint. If you are still at the board stage, the drywall sheet calculator and the drywall mud calculator use the same room dimensions you have just entered here.

On the exterior, siding is measured the same way — perimeter times height, minus openings — but the material and the coating are estimated together, because the substrate profile changes both. The vinyl siding calculator handles the cladding side of that takeoff.

One last piece of context: for a repaint, the cost of paint is usually a small share of the job compared with labour and preparation. Getting the gallons right matters because a shortfall stops the work and a colour re-tint is never exact — not because the material is the expensive part.

Frequently asked questions

How much paint do I need for a 12 × 12 room?

About 2.2 gallons for two coats on the walls at 350 ft² per gallon before deductions, or 2.0 gallons after them. The walls are 2 × (12 + 12) × 8 = 384 ft²; two coats at 350 ft² per gallon is 384 × 2 ÷ 350 = 2.19 gallons. Deduct a door and a window at 35 ft² and it falls to 1.99 gallons — still two cans plus a little, so most people buy two gallons and a quart, or simply three gallons if there is a closet to do.

Does a gallon of paint really cover 400 square feet?

Only on a smooth, sealed, previously painted surface. That figure is the manufacturer's rate at the recommended wet film thickness on an ideal substrate. Unprimed drywall runs closer to 300 ft² per gallon, heavy texture closer to 250, and rough-sawn siding or stucco can be half of that again. When in doubt use the lower end of the range on the can, because running out mid-wall costs far more than one spare quart.

Do I need primer, or can I just use two coats of paint?

Prime when the surface is new, patched, stained, glossy or a very different colour; otherwise a second finish coat does the same job better. Primer's purpose is adhesion and sealing, not colour. On bare drywall it stops the paper face and the joint compound absorbing at different rates, which is what produces the patchy sheen known as flashing. Over a sound matte painted wall in a similar colour, primer buys you nothing that a finish coat does not.

Should I deduct doors and windows?

Deduct anything larger than about 15 ft² and ignore the rest. A 3-0 × 6-8 door is 20 ft² and a 3 × 5 window is 15 ft², so both are worth deducting. Small openings are not, because cutting in around a frame uses more paint per square foot than rolling an open wall, and the two effects roughly cancel. In a room that is mostly glazing, deduct the real areas and expect the edge work to take longer than the area suggests.

How much paint does trim take?

Far less than people expect — typically a quart per room, not a gallon. Trim is painted by the square foot even though it is measured in lineal feet, so multiply the run by the developed width of the profile. Fifty-six lineal feet of baseboard developing 6 in of painted surface per foot is only 28 ft², which at two coats and 350 ft² per gallon is 0.16 gallons. The reason trim feels like it takes forever is labour, not material.

How many coats does a dark-to-light colour change need?

Three finish coats, or two over a tinted primer. Light colours over dark ones hide poorly because the pigments that give a pale paint its brightness are not opaque enough to bury a saturated base. The efficient answer is a primer tinted toward your finish colour: primer is normally cheaper per gallon than premium finish paint, and it converts a three-coat job into a two-coat one. Deep reds and strong yellows behave the same way in reverse and often need three coats over any base.

Why does the calculator ask for a spread rate instead of assuming one?

Because it is the only input that can double your order. The sensitivity table on this page sweeps the rate from 250 to 450 ft² per gallon: at the low end you need 80% more paint than at the high end for the same room and the same number of coats. No default can be right for both a skim-coated wall and a knockdown texture, so the calculator makes the assumption visible and lets you price the uncertainty.

Is spraying more or less efficient than rolling?

Spraying is faster but uses more material. Some of the atomised paint never lands on the surface, and a sprayer lays down a thicker wet film than a roller, so both effects push consumption up. The practical way to handle it in an estimate is to reduce the spread rate you enter rather than to add a percentage at the end — that keeps the arithmetic consistent and it is how the loss actually behaves. Back-rolling after spraying gives the film build of rolling with the speed of spraying, at a rate somewhere between the two.

What is a normal amount of leftover paint?

Half a gallon to a gallon per colour is typical and worth keeping for touch-ups. In the worked example on this page the exact requirement is 5.51 gallons and the purchase is 9 cans, but almost all of that gap is the four separate products, not overbuying — the wall paint alone is 2.22 gallons against 3 cans. If your leftovers routinely exceed a gallon per colour, your spread rate assumption is too pessimistic.

References

  • MPI Architectural Painting Specification Manual — Master Painters Institute
  • ASTM D344, Standard Test Method for Relative Hiding Power of Paints by the Visual Examination of Brushouts — ASTM International
  • GA-214, Recommended Levels of Finish for Gypsum Board, Glass Mat and Fiber-Reinforced Gypsum Panels — Gypsum Association