Crafts, Textiles, 3D Printing & Photography Woodworking & Shop Math Linear one-dimensional cutting-stock arithmetic

Lumber Cut List Yield & Kerf Calculator

Buying lumber by dividing project length by board length is how people end up one board short on a Sunday afternoon. Every crosscut throws away a kerf, every board loses an inch or two to checked ends and snipe, and the last part on each stick almost never lands on the end. This calculator counts how many parts genuinely fit one board or one rip of sheet goods, how many boards or sheets your quantity needs, how long the offcut on each one will be, and what fraction of the material you bought ends up in the project.

Calculator

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Inputs this calculator takes, with typical values
InputWhat to enterExample
Board or sheet lengthThe stock length you can buy. Common softwood sticks are 96, 120, 144 and 192 in; a plywood sheet is 96 in.96 in
Board or sheet widthActual width, not the nominal call: a 1x6 is 5.5 in and a plywood sheet is 48 in.5.5 in
Part lengthFinished length of one part, measured after any trimming you intend to do on the finished piece.18 in
Part widthFinished width of one part. Set it equal to the board width if you are not ripping.2.5 in
Parts neededTotal count of identical parts your cut list calls for.12
Saw kerfWidth of material the blade removes: about 0.125 in for a full-kerf table saw blade, 0.094 in for a thin-kerf, 0.04 in for a bandsaw.0.125 in
End trim per boardTotal length removed from each board for checked ends, snipe or a square reference cut — usually 1 to 2 in.1 in
Price per board or sheetWhat one full board or sheet costs you at the lumberyard, including tax if you want the real number.24 $

It returns

  • Boards or sheets to buy — Rounded up. Buy one spare on top of this if the stock is figured or the cuts are fussy.
  • Parts per board
  • Parts per length run — How many parts fit end to end along one rip.
  • Rips across the width
  • Offcut left on each board
  • Material yield — Finished part area as a share of the board area you paid for.
  • Spare parts from the last board
  • Material cost

The formula

n=LT+kp+k
r=W+kw+k
B=Qnr

In plain text: n = ⌊(L − T + k) / (p + k)⌋

  • nParts that fit end to end along one board (count)
  • LStock length of the board or sheet (in)
  • TEnd trim removed from each board (in)
  • pFinished part length (in)
  • kSaw kerf — material the blade removes per cut (in)

The +k in the numerator is there because the last part on a board needs no kerf after it: n parts consume n·p + (n−1)·k of usable length.

Updated Category Woodworking & Shop Math Verified against published test cases Reading time 12 min

Why dividing length by length gives the wrong answer

A cut list says you need twelve rails 18 in long. An 8 ft board is 96 in. Ninety-six divided by eighteen is 5.33, so five per board, so three boards. That answer is right by accident here and wrong most of the time, and it is wrong for two reasons that pull in the same direction.

The first is the kerf. Every crosscut turns a strip of wood into sawdust — 0.125 in for a full-kerf table saw blade, about 0.094 in for a thin-kerf, 0.04 in for a bandsaw. Cutting five 18 in parts takes four kerfs between them, so 90 in of parts actually eats 90.5 in of board.

The second is the end trim. Board ends check, split and get dinged in the rack, and a planer leaves snipe in the first and last few inches. Nobody uses the extreme ends of a rough board, so an inch or two comes off before the first useful cut.

Put both in and the arithmetic changes: 96 in of board minus 1 in of trim is 95 in of usable length, and 95 in holds five 18 in parts with 4.5 in left over. Still five — but move to 20 in parts and the same board holds four, not the 4.75 that plain division suggests, and you have thrown away 14.6 in per board.

The count is a floor function, so it changes in steps. That is why a quarter inch off a part length sometimes saves you an entire board and usually saves nothing at all.

The formula, and the +k that people leave out

Write L for the stock length, T for the end trim, p for the part length and k for the kerf. The usable length is LT. Now ask what n parts actually consume: n lengths of part, plus the kerfs between them. There are n − 1 of those, not n, because the last part ends at the offcut and needs no cut after it.

So n parts fit when n·p + (n − 1)kLT. Rearranging for n gives the form at the top of this page: n = ⌊(LT + k) / (p + k)⌋. Writing it as ⌊(LT) / (p + k)⌋ instead — which is the version most people reach for — undercounts by one part whenever the fit is tight, and one part per board across a big run is real money.

Ripping across the width works the same way, without the trim: rips = ⌊(W + k) / (w + k)⌋. A 5.5 in board gives two 2.5 in strips with a 0.125 in kerf, because 2 × 2.5 + 0.125 = 5.125 ≤ 5.5, while three would need 7.75 in. A 48 in plywood sheet gives four 11.25 in shelves, because 4 × 11.25 + 3 × 0.125 = 45.375 in fits and five would need 56.75 in.

Multiply the two counts for parts per board, divide your quantity by that and round up for the board count. Yield is finished part area over purchased board area — a blunt measure, but the one that tells you whether a different stock length would serve you better.

Everything here assumes identical parts. A real cut list with several part sizes is a bin-packing problem, and mixing sizes on one board almost always beats running each size separately.

Worked example: twelve 18 in rails from 1×6 pine

You need twelve rails, 18 in long and 2.5 in wide, from 1×6 pine at $24 for an 8 ft board. Your table saw has a full-kerf blade at 0.125 in and you trim 1 in off each board.

  1. Usable length. 96 − 1 = 95 in.
  2. Parts along the length. (95 + 0.125) ÷ (18 + 0.125) = 95.125 ÷ 18.125 = 5.248, floored to 5. Check it: five parts consume 5 × 18 + 4 × 0.125 = 90.5 in, which fits in 95; six would need 108.625 in, which does not.
  3. Offcut. 95 − 90.5 = 4.5 in of usable stock left on each board.
  4. Rips across the width. A 1×6 is 5.5 in wide. (5.5 + 0.125) ÷ (2.5 + 0.125) = 5.625 ÷ 2.625 = 2.143, floored to 2.
  5. Parts per board. 5 × 2 = 10.
  6. Boards required. ⌈12 ÷ 10⌉ = 2, and they yield 20 parts, so 8 are spare.
  7. Yield. Parts area is 12 × 18 × 2.5 = 540 in². Board area is 2 × 96 × 5.5 = 1,056 in². 540 ÷ 1,056 = 51.1%.
  8. Cost. 2 × $24 = $48.

Half the material becomes offcut, and the reason is visible in the numbers: the eight spare parts on the second board are 360 in² of that waste. Twelve parts is an awkward quantity for a board that yields ten. Twenty parts would come from the same two boards at 85.2% yield, and ten parts would come from one board at 85.2% as well — the calculation is 10 × 18 × 2.5 ÷ (96 × 5.5) = 450 ÷ 528.

Parts per board by part length, at 1/8 in kerf

Parts that fit end to end along one rip, computed from n = ⌊(L − T + k)/(p + k)⌋ with a 0.125 in kerf and 1 in of end trim, so usable length is 95 in on an 8 ft board and 143 in on a 12 ft board.
Part length (in)Per 8 ft boardOffcut (in)Per 12 ft boardParts gained by going to 12 ft
12710.25114
16514.5083
1854.5072
20414.6373
24322.7552
3034.7541
36222.8831
48147.0021

Read the offcut column before you buy. A 20 in part leaves 14.63 in stranded on every 8 ft board but only 2.25 in on a 12 ft board; a 30 in part leaves 4.75 in on the 8 ft and 22.63 in on the 12 ft. Which stock length wastes less depends entirely on your part length, not on the stock length alone.

How to read the yield figure

Yield tells you what fraction of the area you paid for ends up in the project. Above about 80% you are cutting efficiently and there is little left to win. Between 60% and 80% is normal for a small run of one part size. Below 50% something structural is wrong: either the part length strands a long offcut on every board, or your quantity is just over a multiple of the parts-per-board figure and the last board is mostly spare.

The stock-length table the calculator builds is the tool for the first problem. It runs the identical arithmetic against 6, 8, 10, 12 and 16 ft stock and shows what each yields. Do not read it as a price comparison unless you substitute the real price of each length, because it prices every row at the same figure you entered.

For the second problem — the last board being mostly spare — the fix is usually to find another part in the project that fits the offcut. If a board leaves 22 in after three 24 in parts, and your project also wants 10 in blocks, those blocks are free. That is the whole reason cabinet shops cut from a combined list rather than part by part.

Board footage is a different question from part count. If you are buying rough hardwood sold by the board foot rather than by the stick, price the job with the board feet calculator and use this page only for the count. And if the parts are shelves, check them for stiffness with the shelf sag calculator before you commit to a thickness — a thinner part that saves a board and then sags is not a saving.

Assumptions and limits

  • All parts are identical. Mixing several part lengths on one board is a packing problem this page does not solve, and mixing almost always beats running each size separately.
  • Rips and crosscuts are independent. The parts-per-board figure assumes you can rip the full length and then crosscut each strip. If you crosscut first, the count is the same but the offcut is distributed differently.
  • Defects are not modelled. Knots, checks, wane and bow all remove usable length unpredictably. Rough hardwood commonly loses 10 to 20% beyond the arithmetic here, which is one reason lumberyards quote a separate cutting yield.
  • Grain direction is ignored. On plywood the face grain runs the long way, so shelves ripped across the sheet are weaker than shelves cut along it even though the yield arithmetic is identical.
  • The end trim is one number per board. If you square one end and leave the other, halve it. If both ends are checked, 2 in is more realistic than 1 in.
  • Wood moves after cutting. Parts cut oversize now and milled to final size later need extra length and width; work out how much with the wood movement calculator.

Buy one more board than the arithmetic says

The count above is exact given perfect stock and a perfect operator. Neither exists. A tear-out on the last part, a board that turns out to be cupped, or a dimension you read wrong on the plan all cost you a part, and going back to the yard costs an hour. On any job where the parts are visible, buy a spare board and return it if you do not need it.

Where cut-list arithmetic sits among the alternatives

What this page solves is the one-dimensional cutting-stock problem restricted to a single part size — the simplest member of a family that gets hard quickly. Add a second part length and you are choosing which parts to pair on each board; add twenty and you are running an optimiser. Dedicated cut-list software does exactly that, and for a kitchen's worth of sheet goods it will beat hand planning by several sheets. For a project with one or two part sizes, the arithmetic here gives the same answer in a fraction of the time.

Sheet goods deserve a separate thought. Plywood, MDF and melamine come in fixed 48 × 96 in sheets, and the two-dimensional packing problem has a different character from ripping a board: you are choosing whether to cut the sheet the long way or the short way first, and that choice changes the yield without changing any dimension. The fabric cutting layout calculator solves the same geometry for cloth, where the width is fixed and the length is what you buy.

One more limitation worth naming: this page counts parts, not board feet, and lumber is priced both ways. Softwood dimensional stock is sold by the stick at a fixed price per length, which is what the cost figure here assumes. Rough hardwood is sold by the board foot at a price that varies with thickness and grade, and a hardwood dealer will often sell you a random-width, random-length pile from which the yield is genuinely unpredictable. In that world the count you compute here is a lower bound on what you should buy, not a shopping list.

Frequently asked questions

How many 18 inch pieces can I get from an 8 foot board?

Five, if you allow a 1 in end trim and a 1/8 in kerf. The usable length is 95 in, and five parts consume 5 × 18 + 4 × 0.125 = 90.5 in, leaving 4.5 in over. Six parts would need 108.625 in. Without any trim or kerf the plain arithmetic says 5.33, which also floors to five — but at 16 in parts the two methods disagree, giving five with kerf and trim against six without.

Why does the formula add the kerf to the top of the fraction?

Because the last part on the board needs no cut after it. Cutting n parts takes n − 1 kerfs between them, not n, so n parts consume n·p + (n − 1)·k. Solving that inequality for n puts a +k in the numerator. Leaving it out gives the same answer most of the time and undercounts by one part exactly when the fit is tight, which is when it matters.

What kerf should I enter?

Use 0.125 in for a full-kerf 10 in table saw or mitre saw blade, 0.094 in for a thin-kerf blade, and 0.04 in for a 1/2 in bandsaw blade. Track saws and circular saws are typically 0.085 to 0.098 in. If you want the exact figure, cut a scrap in two, push the halves back together and measure how much shorter the pair is than the original — that difference is one kerf.

Is a longer board always cheaper per part?

No. Whether a longer stick wastes less depends entirely on how your part length divides into it. A 20 in part strands 14.63 in on an 8 ft board and only 2.25 in on a 12 ft board, so the 12 ft stock is clearly better. A 30 in part strands 4.75 in on the 8 ft board and 22.63 in on the 12 ft board, so the shorter stock wins. The stock-length table in the results runs both cases for your actual numbers.

How much end trim should I allow?

One inch per board is a reasonable default for surfaced softwood from a rack, and two inches is safer for rough hardwood or anything that has been stickered outdoors. If you plane or joint the parts after cutting, allow for snipe as well — most benchtop planers leave a shallow dip in the first and last two to three inches of every pass, which is why many shops feed a sacrificial board behind the workpiece.

Does the calculator handle several different part sizes?

Not in one pass — it counts one part size at a time. For a cut list with several sizes, run the largest part first, note the offcut length it leaves on each board, and then check which of your smaller parts fits in that offcut. That manual pass captures most of the gain. For a full kitchen or anything with more than about six part sizes, dedicated cut-list optimisation software will beat hand planning.

What is a good yield percentage?

Above 80% is efficient for a single part size, 60 to 80% is normal, and below 50% means either a long stranded offcut on every board or a quantity that just overflows onto an extra board. Professional cabinet shops running sheet goods through an optimiser target 85 to 90% on plywood. Rough hardwood is a different world — 50 to 65% is common once defects are cut out, and hardwood dealers quote a cutting yield for exactly that reason.

Should I rip first or crosscut first?

The part count is the same either way, but the handling is not. Ripping the full-length board first and then crosscutting the strips is safer on a table saw because you are always pushing a long, stable workpiece, and it gives you one continuous strip whose offcut is easy to reuse. Crosscutting first means ripping short pieces, which is where kickback happens. Do the long cuts while the stock is long.

References

  • Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material, General Technical Report FPL-GTR-190USDA Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory
  • American Softwood Lumber Standard, Voluntary Product Standard PS 20 (surfaced sizes of dimension lumber) — U.S. Department of Commerce, National Institute of Standards and Technology
  • Understanding Wood: A Craftsman's Guide to Wood Technology, 2nd ed. — R. Bruce Hoadley, The Taunton Press