Cooking, Baking & Brewing Homebrewing & Beer Henry's-law regression to standard CO₂ equilibrium tables

Keg Carbonation PSI Calculator

Set your regulator to the pressure this calculator returns, leave the keg alone at that temperature, and the beer settles at your target carbonation and stays there. Carbonation is an equilibrium between the gas above the beer and the gas dissolved in it, so the right pressure depends entirely on temperature — the same 2.5 volumes needs about 11 psi at 38 °F and about 18 psi at 54 °F. The calculator also works backwards, telling you what carbonation a keg will reach at a pressure you are already using, and sizes the beer line you need so the pour is not all foam.

Calculator

This calculator runs in your browser. Enable JavaScript for live results — the inputs, formula and worked example below remain fully readable without it.

Inputs this calculator takes, with typical values
InputWhat to enterExample
Temperature scaleChoose the scale your fridge thermometer reads in.Fahrenheit
Beer temperature in the kegThe temperature of the beer itself, not the air setting on the fridge dial.38 °F
Beer temperature in the kegThe temperature of the beer itself, not the air setting on the fridge dial.3.5 °C
Target carbonationVolumes of CO₂ for the style; 2.4–2.6 suits most ales and lagers on tap.2.5 vol
Beer lineResistance per foot for common tubing; 3/16" vinyl is the homebrew default.3/16" ID vinyl — 3.0 psi/ft
Rise from keg outlet to tapVertical height the beer must climb; costs about 0.5 psi per foot.2 ft
Pressure you are actually runningEnter a regulator setting to see what carbonation the keg will settle at instead.12 psi

It returns

  • Regulator pressure — Set and leave; the keg reaches equilibrium in one to two weeks at this pressure.
  • Same pressure in bar
  • Carbonation at your current pressure — What the keg will settle at if you leave the regulator where it is.
  • Balanced beer line length
  • Balanced beer line length
  • Dissolved CO₂ at the target

The formula

P=16.69990.0101059T+0.00116512T2+0.173354TV+4.24267V0.0684226V2
L=P10.5hr
m=1.96V

In plain text: P = −16.6999 − 0.0101059·T + 0.00116512·T² + 0.173354·T·V + 4.24267·V − 0.0684226·V²

  • PGauge pressure to hold on the regulator (psi)
  • TTemperature of the beer in the keg (°F)
  • VTarget carbonation (volumes CO₂)

A second-order surface fitted to standard CO₂ equilibrium tables over the normal cellar and serving range. It expresses Henry's law for carbon dioxide in beer in the units brewers actually use.

Updated Category Homebrewing & Beer Verified against published test cases Reading time 11 min

Carbonation is an equilibrium, not a dose

Put a keg of beer under CO2 pressure and gas crosses into the liquid until the beer is saturated for that pressure and that temperature. Turn the pressure up and more dissolves; let the beer warm and gas comes back out. There is no point at which the beer is "finished" — it is always chasing the equilibrium set by the two conditions you control. That is why a carbonation figure alone means nothing: 12 psi is not a carbonation level, it is a pressure that produces 2.7 volumes at 38 °F and 1.9 volumes at 54 °F.

Henry's law is the underlying physics: the amount of gas dissolved in a liquid is proportional to the partial pressure of that gas above it, with a proportionality constant that falls as temperature rises. Beer is not a simple solution and CO2 is not a perfectly ideal gas, so brewers work from measured tables rather than from theory. The equation on this page is a polynomial fitted to those tables, giving pressure directly in psi from a Fahrenheit temperature and a carbonation target in volumes.

The practical consequence is worth stating plainly: the pressure you set and the temperature you keep are one setting, not two. If your kegerator drifts from 38 to 44 °F over a hot weekend and the regulator does not move, the beer sheds gas until it matches the new equilibrium — around 2.2 volumes instead of 2.5 — and the excess vents through the relief valve. Bring it back down and you have to wait days for it to reabsorb.

Why the beer line has to fight the pressure

The pressure that holds carbonation is almost always more than the pressure that gives a good pour. Beer arriving at the tap at 12 psi is moving fast and drops pressure instantly at the faucet, so the dissolved CO2 comes out of solution in the glass as foam. The fix is to make the beer line absorb the surplus through friction, so that beer reaches the faucet at roughly 1 psi and a flow of about one gallon every two minutes.

Three terms make up the balance. Line resistance is the big one and depends steeply on internal diameter: 3/16 in vinyl offers about 3 psi per foot, while 1/4 in vinyl offers only about 0.85 and 3/8 in barely 0.2. Going one size up in tubing roughly quadruples the length you need. Vertical rise costs about 0.5 psi per foot of lift from the keg outlet to the tap, which matters in a tower and not at all in a chest freezer. Tap loss is conventionally taken as 1 psi for a standard faucet.

So the balanced length is (P − 1 − 0.5h) / r. At 12 psi with a 2 ft rise on 3/16 in vinyl that is (12 − 1 − 1) ÷ 3 = 3.3 ft. Homebrewers routinely run 5 to 10 ft instead, which over-restricts slightly and gives a slow, quiet pour — a deliberate and sensible choice, since a line that is too long only costs you patience while one that is too short costs you a glass of foam.

If your pour is foamy and the line is already long, look elsewhere first: a warm faucet or a warm section of line, a partially closed shutoff, or beer that is simply over-carbonated because the regulator has been sitting at 25 psi since you burst-carbonated it.

Worked example: a 40 °F kegerator at 2.5 volumes

Corny keg in a converted fridge holding the beer at 40 °F, target 2.5 volumes, 3/16 in vinyl line, and 2 ft of rise from the keg outlet up to the shank.

  1. Temperature-only terms. −16.6999 − (0.0101059 × 40) + (0.00116512 × 1600) = −16.6999 − 0.40424 + 1.86419 = −15.23994.
  2. Temperature–volume term. 0.173354 × 40 × 2.5 = 17.33540.
  3. Volume terms. (4.24267 × 2.5) − (0.0684226 × 6.25) = 10.60668 − 0.42764 = 10.17904.
  4. Pressure. −15.23994 + 17.33540 + 10.17904 = 12.27 psi, which is 0.846 bar.
  5. Pressure the line must absorb. 12.27 − 1 (tap) − 1 (2 ft × 0.5 psi/ft) = 10.27 psi.
  6. Balanced line length. 10.27 ÷ 3 = 3.4 ft. Round up to 5 ft in practice for a slower, cleaner pour.
  7. Dissolved CO2. 2.5 × 1.96 = 4.9 g/L.

Now cool the same keg to 34 °F and repeat: the pressure drops to 9.6 psi for the identical carbonation, and the balanced line shortens to 2.5 ft. Colder beer holds gas more willingly, which is why commercial cellars run cold and why raising your fridge temperature to "serve it warmer" quietly changes your carbonation.

Setting the pressure and knowing when it has worked

Set and forget is the reliable method. Chill the keg to serving temperature, set the regulator to the calculated pressure, connect the gas and leave it for one to two weeks. Nothing can go wrong, because the equilibrium is the target — leave it a month and it is still correct. The cost is time.

Burst carbonating trades safety for speed: pressurise to 25–30 psi for 24 to 48 hours, then bleed the keg down and reset the regulator to the serving pressure. It works because the higher pressure drives gas in faster, but there is no equilibrium to protect you and 12 hours of inattention makes a keg you cannot pour for a week. If you burst carbonate, set a timer, and always finish by dropping back to the calculated serving pressure.

Judge the result by pouring, not by looking at the gauge. A keg mid-way to equilibrium pours flat at the top of the glass with visible bubbles clinging to the sides; a keg at target pours with a head that holds. If you have a keg you did not carbonate yourself, use the reverse lookup: enter the pressure the previous owner was running and it tells you where the beer has settled.

Pick the target from the style, the same numbers you would use for bottles. Most ales and lagers on tap sit at 2.4 to 2.6 volumes, British cask-style ales at 1.2 to 1.8, German wheat beers at 3.0 to 4.0. The priming sugar calculator uses the identical scale, so a recipe carbonated one way transfers directly to the other. Note that force carbonating a keg and bottling from it are different problems — a beer kegged at 2.6 volumes and then bottled from the tap will lose gas in transfer.

Carbonation pressure chart (psi)

Equilibrium gauge pressure in psi for pure CO₂, by beer temperature and target carbonation, from the fitted regression.
Beer temp2.0 vol2.2 vol2.4 vol2.6 vol2.8 vol3.0 vol
34 °F / 1.1 °C4.36.38.210.212.114.1
38 °F / 3.3 °C6.08.110.212.314.416.5
42 °F / 5.6 °C7.710.012.214.416.718.9
46 °F / 7.8 °C9.511.814.216.619.021.3
50 °F / 10.0 °C11.313.816.318.821.323.8
54 °F / 12.2 °C13.115.718.421.123.726.3
58 °F / 14.4 °C15.017.820.623.326.128.9

Read across a row to see the cost of extra carbonation and down a column to see the cost of a warm fridge: holding 2.4 volumes needs 8.2 psi at 34 °F and 20.6 psi at 58 °F. These figures assume pure CO₂ in the headspace; a nitrogen blend changes them entirely.

A CO₂ and nitrogen blend does not follow this chart

Only the partial pressure of carbon dioxide sets carbonation. Nitrogen is nearly insoluble in beer, so a 70/30 nitrogen-CO2 blend run at 30 psi puts just 9 psi of CO2 partial pressure on the beer, which at 38 °F holds about 2.3 volumes — while the total 30 psi pushes the beer through a restrictor plate to make the tight cascading head that nitro dispense is used for. If you are running a blend, use this chart on the CO2 partial pressure only: multiply your gauge reading by the CO2 fraction of the mix.

Why a keg pours wrong

  • The regulator is still at burst pressure. The most common cause of a foamy keg by a wide margin. Bleed the headspace and reset to the serving figure.
  • The beer line is too short for the pressure. Three feet of 3/16 in vinyl balances about 10 psi; a 6 ft line handles a 19 psi system. Lengthening the line is cheaper than every other fix.
  • The fridge is not as cold as the dial says. Measure the beer, not the air. A keg reading 46 °F when you thought it was 38 is carrying half a volume less than you calculated.
  • Warm faucets and warm tower. Beer that warms in the last foot of line breaks out of solution at the faucet no matter how well the system is balanced. A tower fan or a cooled shank solves it.
  • A partially closed shutoff or a kinked line. A restriction concentrated at one point causes turbulence and foam, unlike the even friction of a long line.
  • Confusing carbonation with pressure. The gauge reading is meaningless without the temperature it belongs to — check what your setting actually delivers with the reverse lookup above.

Force carbonation next to the alternatives

Force carbonation is the most controllable of the three ways to carbonate beer, and the only reversible one. Over-carbonated? Vent and wait. Under-carbonated? Raise the pressure. Neither is possible once beer is in a bottle.

Bottle conditioning manufactures its gas from a measured sugar dose and takes three weeks, but needs no CO2 cylinder and produces the fine, dense carbonation many drinkers prefer. It is also the only method available for beers you want to age for years. The priming sugar calculator handles that side, and it corrects for exactly the same residual-CO2 effect that this page describes, just from the opposite direction: there, dissolved gas is a credit against the sugar you need.

Spunding captures the tail end of fermentation under a pressure-relief valve set to the figure this calculator gives, so the beer carbonates itself with its own CO2. It uses no cylinder gas at all and gives fully natural carbonation, but it needs a pressure-rated fermenter and gravity readings accurate enough to know when to seal — a beer sealed with ten points left will overshoot badly, which you can head off by tracking gravity with the ABV and attenuation calculator. Set the spunding valve to the pressure for your target at fermentation temperature, not at serving temperature; the difference between 68 °F and 38 °F is large.

Frequently asked questions

What PSI do I need for 2.5 volumes of CO2?

About 11 psi at 38 °F, 12.3 psi at 40 °F and 18 psi at 50 °F. The pressure is meaningless without the temperature, because carbonation is an equilibrium between the two. Set the regulator to the figure for your actual beer temperature and leave it; the keg reaches that carbonation in one to two weeks and holds it indefinitely.

How long does force carbonation take?

One to two weeks at serving pressure for a five-gallon corny keg left undisturbed, or 24 to 48 hours at 25–30 psi if you burst carbonate and then drop back. Rocking or shaking the keg speeds absorption dramatically by increasing the gas-liquid surface area, but makes the endpoint hard to judge. The set-and-forget method cannot overshoot, which is why it is the safer default.

How long should my beer line be?

Enough to absorb the serving pressure minus about 1 psi at the tap and 0.5 psi per foot of vertical rise. On 3/16 in vinyl at 3 psi per foot, a 12 psi system with a 2 ft rise needs about 3.5 ft — but most homebrewers run 5 to 10 ft deliberately, because an over-long line only slows the pour while a short one foams. If you use 1/4 in line you need roughly three and a half times the length.

Why is my kegged beer foamy?

Nine times out of ten the regulator is still sitting at burst-carbonation pressure, or the beer line is too short for the pressure you are running. Check the pressure against the chart for your beer's actual temperature first. Then check line length, then look for a warm faucet or tower, a kinked line or a partly closed shutoff. Genuinely over-carbonated beer can be fixed by venting the headspace repeatedly over a few days at a lower set pressure.

Can I carbonate a keg with priming sugar instead?

Yes — the arithmetic is identical to bottle conditioning, just applied to the whole keg volume. Use roughly the same dose per litre you would use for bottles, seal the keg, and leave it warm for two weeks. The drawbacks are that you cannot adjust it afterwards and you get a yeast layer in the keg that shows up in the first pint or two. Most kegging brewers carbonate from the cylinder for exactly those reasons.

Does the pressure change when the keg empties?

No. The equilibrium depends on temperature and pressure, not on how much beer is left, so the regulator setting stays the same from full to empty. What does change is that the headspace grows, so a keg that has just been opened and closed takes longer to re-equilibrate. Keep the gas connected throughout rather than disconnecting between sessions, or the beer will slowly go flat as it fills the headspace.

What carbonation level should I use for my style?

2.4 to 2.6 volumes covers most ales and lagers served on tap. British cask-style ales sit at 1.2 to 1.8, German wheat beers at 3.0 to 4.0, Belgian ales at 2.5 to 3.5, and stouts served on nitro are typically 1.2 to 1.5 volumes of CO2 with the rest of the dispense pressure supplied by nitrogen. When in doubt, 2.5 is a safe general-purpose target.

Why does the calculator return zero pressure sometimes?

Because at that temperature the beer already holds more CO2 than your target at atmospheric pressure. Cold beer retains a lot of gas without any help — at 34 °F it will sit above 1.5 volumes on its own. To carbonate below that level you would have to vent the keg and let gas escape, not apply pressure, so zero is the honest answer rather than a negative number.

References

  • Draught Beer Quality Manual, 4th edition (line balancing, resistance and dispense pressure) — Brewers Association
  • How to Brew, 4th edition (kegging and carbonation) — John J. Palmer, Brewers Publications, 2017
  • Technology Brewing and Malting, 5th edition (CO₂ solubility in beer) — Wolfgang Kunze, VLB Berlin